The holiday season is rushing along with a frenzy. In the world of gardening, the frenzy is over. The bulbs have been planted (well - most of them!), the annuals are done and forgotten, the perennials are dormant, the vegetables from the garden are a pleasant memory or perhaps preserved in the freezer or glass jars. It is time for gardeners to relax for a while. If you have one or more avid gardeners on your list of people to buy a gift for this year, rest assured the choices are many and there is a very wide price range, from a few dollars into the hundreds.
A present that would be right in the holiday spirit would be a living plant to enjoy such as a live Poinsettia or a Rosemary tree. A fresh evergreen wreath or swag would also be a fragrant and lovely gift, as avid gardeners usually prefer natural decorations.
Does your gardener love roses? If so, there are some great things available. A gift certificate for a quality rose company is a welcome gift. Here is a list of some very reputable rose firms – www.heirloomroses.com, www.ashdownroses.com, www.highcountryroses.com, and www.uncommonrose.com. They all sell own root roses, which are superior to the grafted kind – healthier and longer -lived. Then the lucky recipient can choose one or more new roses from the comfort of his/her home and have them delivered ready to plant at the proper time. There is a much wider variety of roses available this way as opposed to buying only locally. I happily shop both ways. There is a wonderful catalog - www.kinsmangarden.com - that sells all sorts of unique gardening things including lovely and sturdy rose pillars. These are supports for tall and climbing roses – I would personally love one or more of these. They could also support clematis, morning glories and other climbers. (Tip – they also have beautiful small watering cans for $5 that would be a great little present for children). Another good gift for someone who tends roses is a good pair of pruners – the best ones are Felco pruners from Switzerland – available locally and by mail order also from Kinsman. Elbow length leather gloves are also another great gift option for a rosarian. I just bought a pair for myself last year and just love them. I purchased those from a rather "high-falutin" garden catalog – www.smith-hawkin.com - but they do have a wonderful selection of garden gloves. Smith & Hawken also has a retail outlet in Cincinnati on Madison Rd. (513-731-3133) that is really fun to visit.
Excellent stocking stuffers that almost any gardener would appreciate are plant markers – permanent metal markers so one does not forget the names of plants. I wish I had used these more, especially for my roses. A good selection of these are also available from Kinsman.
To encourage organic gardening for someone who always uses chemical fertilizers such as Miracle - Gro, how about a bottle of fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer or bat guano?
Pinetree Garden Seeds (www.superseeds.com) offers The Pinetree Manure Medley – an enriching collection of bat guano, worm castings, and seabird guano in a nice canvas bag with a bar of gardening soap included. A gift only a true gardener would love! My good friend gave me this last year and it was much appreciated. This company also has a big selection of excellent gardening books – many marked down drastically. Pinetree also carries a very cute selection of Cicely Mary Barker’s Flower fairy gift sets – including a polystone Flower Fairy, a book – “Flower Fairies of the Garden,” and a packet of seeds.
A gift certificate to a local gardening center would also be a wonderful gift – I can think of a great one here locally on Greentree Rd. that offers everything from Ash trees to Zinnias. Next week – more gift ideas!
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Thursday, November 24, 2005
Amaryllis, etc.
Last week I talked about Paperwhites. This week – Amaryllis! I remember the first time I grew an Amaryllis. I was nineteen, in my own home for the first time. I potted up the bulb and anxiously watched it grow for weeks. Finally large buds appeared and began to open, revealing huge gorgeous flowers. The day after the flower buds finally opened, a two-year-old little girl visited me. She was looking with wonder and curiosity at my “big flower” and then suddenly without warning, she reached out and just snapped off the flowers.
I nearly cried. Since then, I have had Amaryllis some years and some not. This year I will again. They are so easy to grow that anyone can grow them, and they are so welcome in the dark days of winter with their long lasting huge colorful flowers.
Where can one purchase Amaryllis? Some stores such as Target carry them prepotted, home centers like Lowe’s carry them, and certainly can be found in all good garden centers – usually the loose bulbs. The bulbs are quite large – about three to four inches in diameter. They are also widely available from bulb companies such as Van Engelen or Dutch Gardens (www.dutchgardens.com) or Van Engelen (www.vanengelen.com). I prefer to buy the loose bulbs, as I have plenty of pots around and also always have some potting soil on hand. Any good quality potting mix will do. The pot should be about six inches in diameter – no larger, as the bulb likes to be somewhat crowded – and also fairly heavy, such as a clay or ceramic pot. It also must have drainage holes. A light plastic pot might be too light, as the Amaryllis gets to be about twenty inches tall with several large heavy blooms. Put the bulb in the soil nearly up to its neck, leaving one quarter of the bulb peeping out of the soil. Water with room temperature water initially, and then do not water more often than once a week. A southern window is ideal for an Amaryllis. From potting to bloom should take six to twelve weeks. If you pot one up now, you should be enjoying gorgeous blooms sometime in January, just when you need a little pick me up. As the flowers fade, cut off the individual flowers with a sharp scissors.
After the extended bloom period – what then? If you don’t mind purchasing new bulbs yearly, you may toss it on the compost heap or just somewhere out in a garden bed to decompose. Or, with a bit of care and feeding, one can bring it to bloom again next year.
After the flowers are completely spent and faded, leave the flowering stalk to die back in a natural fashion. Leave the leaves in place and treat it as a houseplant for the rest of the winter. After the last frost date (May 15 here), sink the pot in your garden somewhere partially sunny (at least four hours) to grow its leaves and build energy for its next bloom cycle. Fertilize monthly with fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer. In mid September, dig up the pot and bring it inside. Put it in a cool place for the next eight to ten weeks. I put mine next to an outer door that is infrequently used. It must be cool and dark, about 55 degrees. Withhold water during this time. After the eight to ten-week wait, bring the potted bulb back in to a warm light area, and begin watering again to begin the cycle all over again.
Try an Amaryllis this winter – you will be glad you did!
I nearly cried. Since then, I have had Amaryllis some years and some not. This year I will again. They are so easy to grow that anyone can grow them, and they are so welcome in the dark days of winter with their long lasting huge colorful flowers.
Where can one purchase Amaryllis? Some stores such as Target carry them prepotted, home centers like Lowe’s carry them, and certainly can be found in all good garden centers – usually the loose bulbs. The bulbs are quite large – about three to four inches in diameter. They are also widely available from bulb companies such as Van Engelen or Dutch Gardens (www.dutchgardens.com) or Van Engelen (www.vanengelen.com). I prefer to buy the loose bulbs, as I have plenty of pots around and also always have some potting soil on hand. Any good quality potting mix will do. The pot should be about six inches in diameter – no larger, as the bulb likes to be somewhat crowded – and also fairly heavy, such as a clay or ceramic pot. It also must have drainage holes. A light plastic pot might be too light, as the Amaryllis gets to be about twenty inches tall with several large heavy blooms. Put the bulb in the soil nearly up to its neck, leaving one quarter of the bulb peeping out of the soil. Water with room temperature water initially, and then do not water more often than once a week. A southern window is ideal for an Amaryllis. From potting to bloom should take six to twelve weeks. If you pot one up now, you should be enjoying gorgeous blooms sometime in January, just when you need a little pick me up. As the flowers fade, cut off the individual flowers with a sharp scissors.
After the extended bloom period – what then? If you don’t mind purchasing new bulbs yearly, you may toss it on the compost heap or just somewhere out in a garden bed to decompose. Or, with a bit of care and feeding, one can bring it to bloom again next year.
After the flowers are completely spent and faded, leave the flowering stalk to die back in a natural fashion. Leave the leaves in place and treat it as a houseplant for the rest of the winter. After the last frost date (May 15 here), sink the pot in your garden somewhere partially sunny (at least four hours) to grow its leaves and build energy for its next bloom cycle. Fertilize monthly with fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer. In mid September, dig up the pot and bring it inside. Put it in a cool place for the next eight to ten weeks. I put mine next to an outer door that is infrequently used. It must be cool and dark, about 55 degrees. Withhold water during this time. After the eight to ten-week wait, bring the potted bulb back in to a warm light area, and begin watering again to begin the cycle all over again.
Try an Amaryllis this winter – you will be glad you did!
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Fall Chores and Paperwhites
November is halfway over and with Thanksgiving around the corner – December will be here before we know it. Have you finished up all the chores in your garden?
I know I said that I usually leave all my perennials and annuals in place, but I do make a few exceptions. I always cut off my peony foliage (if I hadn’t done so earlier) because they sometimes have botrytis blight. If you have chrysanthemums – cut those off to three or four inches after a hard frost.
The big thing now is also what to do with all those leaves. I have noticed people raking them out to the street like in the past. The city of Middletown does not pick up leaves at curbside any longer. If you wish you can bag them and put them out for the trash – but STOP! Why waste such a valuable resource? In nature nothing goes to waste – dead leaves, dead plants, and dead trees even are all recycled back into the soil to provide nutrients for the next generations of plants. Many people now take their cue from nature and recycle all those leaves back into extremely beneficial soil conditioner/fertilizer. If you don’t have too many leaves, just mow over them and leave them on your lawn. Over winter they will decompose and benefit your grass. For lots of leaves, you may also either run over them with a lawnmower (here a mulching mower with a bag comes in handy) or shred them with a shredder. Then move all the shredded leaves to your garden beds with the help of a rake. The shredded leaves will readily break down over winter. If you do this for two or three years you will notice your soil has really improved. Our clay soil here needs all the organic material you can add to it. Keep adding your kitchen scraps to the soil too – I merely sprinkle them over my beds in different places – potato peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, etc. If you have a heavy layer of mulch, stir them into the mulch with a trowel. I have been doing this for years and have noticed my soil get richer and easier to dig in every year.
Gather up all the garden tools lying around (OK, maybe you are organized and don’t have them lying around like I do). However, this is a good time to clean them and store them. Remove heavy rust with Naval Jelly and then coat with mineral oil. For a good way to store garden tools, fill a bucket with sand, add some mineral oil and mix well. Stick your tools down in here for the winter. Get rid of worn out tools or tools you didn’t use and take advantage of winter sales to get new ones or – ask for new ones for Christmas!
Don’t forget to bring in your hose for the winter. This is something I have forgotten in the past until the snow melts.
And now for something completely different…
Every year I read articles about forcing bulbs. I have tried it in the past without much success. It seems like an awful lot of trouble for a little bit of color. There are bulbs to force that are so easy a child can do it. I am talking about Paperwhites and Amaryllis bulbs. They need no chilling – just plant and water. Specifically – Paperwhites are in the Narcissus family, originally from the Mediterranean area. They have creamy white blooms that are extremely fragrant. You need a container that is at least four inches or more deep with no drain holes. You can use soil, but you certainly don’t need to, as gravel or small stones will do nicely. Put an inch or two of your planting medium in the bottom of the container, place your bulbs in, and then add more planting medium (soil, pebbles, gravel) up to the neck or top of the bulbs – leave a little bulb peeking out. Then add some water – not too much – the bulbs should not be sitting in water. Keep adding some water regularly and in 4 to 6 weeks they will bloom. Until then, it is fun to watch them grow. You may start some every few weeks all winter for continual bloom. Now is a good time to start a batch for Christmas to have bloom and fragrance in your house. After they show green growth move to a cool sunny window. You may pot some up in pretty ceramic containers and give them as gifts for Christmas along with instructions for care. Paperwhites can be purchased locally in garden shops or ordered from bulb companies.
Next week I will talk about the care and culture of Amaryllis bulbs.
I know I said that I usually leave all my perennials and annuals in place, but I do make a few exceptions. I always cut off my peony foliage (if I hadn’t done so earlier) because they sometimes have botrytis blight. If you have chrysanthemums – cut those off to three or four inches after a hard frost.
The big thing now is also what to do with all those leaves. I have noticed people raking them out to the street like in the past. The city of Middletown does not pick up leaves at curbside any longer. If you wish you can bag them and put them out for the trash – but STOP! Why waste such a valuable resource? In nature nothing goes to waste – dead leaves, dead plants, and dead trees even are all recycled back into the soil to provide nutrients for the next generations of plants. Many people now take their cue from nature and recycle all those leaves back into extremely beneficial soil conditioner/fertilizer. If you don’t have too many leaves, just mow over them and leave them on your lawn. Over winter they will decompose and benefit your grass. For lots of leaves, you may also either run over them with a lawnmower (here a mulching mower with a bag comes in handy) or shred them with a shredder. Then move all the shredded leaves to your garden beds with the help of a rake. The shredded leaves will readily break down over winter. If you do this for two or three years you will notice your soil has really improved. Our clay soil here needs all the organic material you can add to it. Keep adding your kitchen scraps to the soil too – I merely sprinkle them over my beds in different places – potato peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, etc. If you have a heavy layer of mulch, stir them into the mulch with a trowel. I have been doing this for years and have noticed my soil get richer and easier to dig in every year.
Gather up all the garden tools lying around (OK, maybe you are organized and don’t have them lying around like I do). However, this is a good time to clean them and store them. Remove heavy rust with Naval Jelly and then coat with mineral oil. For a good way to store garden tools, fill a bucket with sand, add some mineral oil and mix well. Stick your tools down in here for the winter. Get rid of worn out tools or tools you didn’t use and take advantage of winter sales to get new ones or – ask for new ones for Christmas!
Don’t forget to bring in your hose for the winter. This is something I have forgotten in the past until the snow melts.
And now for something completely different…
Every year I read articles about forcing bulbs. I have tried it in the past without much success. It seems like an awful lot of trouble for a little bit of color. There are bulbs to force that are so easy a child can do it. I am talking about Paperwhites and Amaryllis bulbs. They need no chilling – just plant and water. Specifically – Paperwhites are in the Narcissus family, originally from the Mediterranean area. They have creamy white blooms that are extremely fragrant. You need a container that is at least four inches or more deep with no drain holes. You can use soil, but you certainly don’t need to, as gravel or small stones will do nicely. Put an inch or two of your planting medium in the bottom of the container, place your bulbs in, and then add more planting medium (soil, pebbles, gravel) up to the neck or top of the bulbs – leave a little bulb peeking out. Then add some water – not too much – the bulbs should not be sitting in water. Keep adding some water regularly and in 4 to 6 weeks they will bloom. Until then, it is fun to watch them grow. You may start some every few weeks all winter for continual bloom. Now is a good time to start a batch for Christmas to have bloom and fragrance in your house. After they show green growth move to a cool sunny window. You may pot some up in pretty ceramic containers and give them as gifts for Christmas along with instructions for care. Paperwhites can be purchased locally in garden shops or ordered from bulb companies.
Next week I will talk about the care and culture of Amaryllis bulbs.
Tuesday, November 15, 2005
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Rose Hips
If you have roses, you have probably noticed that they produce rose hips in the fall, or anytime after the rose blooms and fades and is not cut off. Rose hips are the “fruit” of the rose. Roses are very closely botanically related to apples, so one can think of rose hips as tiny “rose apples.” If you garden organically, that is, if you did not spray your roses with any fungicides, pesticides, or any other “–cides,” you can harvest your “crop” of rose hips and make good things from them.
Rose hips are very high in nutrients, especially Vitamin C. They also contain iron, Vitamin A, bioflavanoids, pectin, Vitamin E, selenium, manganese, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, and silicon. You can simply pick them and eat them raw, if you like. They are hard and a bit bitter, a little like crabapples. One can also pick them and use them in recipes and to make tea. They are ripe when brightly colored, usually orange or red.
If you don’t have roses in your yard, you may be able to find them out in the meadows or woods where wild roses grow. The rose hips may be used fresh or dried. To dry rose hips, examine them and discard any with discoloration. Wash them in cold water, dry with paper towels, and place them on a wax paper lined cookie sheet. When they are partially dried, probably in a week or so, cut them in half and remove the seeds. A week or so later they will look wrinkly and darker and be ready to store in a glass jar in the refrigerator or freezer. Be sure to rub or cut off any stems or blossom ends. You may snack on these any time you want some energy, or use them in recipes. Anytime you use rose hips, it is recommended that you remove the seeds - whether fresh or dried. They are not poisonous, but may be irritating to some people's digestive systems.
The easiest way to use rose hips is for delicious and nutritious rose hip tea. For tea, hips may be used fresh or dried. Most of the nutrition of the rose hip is contained in the skin and just under the skin.
To make tea from fresh rose hips, steep two tablespoons of fresh cleaned hips in a cup of boiling water for ten minutes. To use dried hips, use two teaspoons of hips and simmer for ten to fifteen minutes in a cup of boiling water. Sweeten to taste with honey and enjoy your vitamin rich and fragrant tea!
If you have a lot of rose hips, you can make rose hip syrup. Wash the rose hips and put them in a non-reactive pot. (not aluminum) Just cover them with water and bring them to a boil. Then lower your heat and simmer for fifteen minutes. Strain off the resulting liquid, pressing the hips lightly with a spoon. The liquid can now be used immediately or frozen for later use. To make the syrup, add one part honey to two parts of the rose hip liquid. Dissolve the honey by stirring. The syrup can be stored for up to two weeks and may be served on pancakes, waffles, or vanilla ice cream. Tastes best if warmed.
In Sweden, they use lots of rose hips and consume them by the tons every year. They probably learned to use rose hips to have Vitamin C in the cold long winter they have in that northern country. One of their favorite recipes is Rose Hip Soup.
To make four servings of soup use the following:
3 cups of rose hip liquid (as above) fresh or frozen
2 Tablespoons honey
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Teaspoons cornstarch
In a saucepan, heat rose hip liquid and add honey and lemon juice. Remove ½ cup of the mixture and whisk cornstarch into this until smooth. Return thickened cornstarch mixture into the pan. Cook and stir until mixture bubbles and thickens. It is now ready to serve. Add a spoonful of sour cream or plain yogurt to each bowlful with a sprig of mint, if desired.
Some adventurous people even make rose hip wine.
If you are one of these people I would be glad to come and sample some of your product!
Rose hips are very high in nutrients, especially Vitamin C. They also contain iron, Vitamin A, bioflavanoids, pectin, Vitamin E, selenium, manganese, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, and silicon. You can simply pick them and eat them raw, if you like. They are hard and a bit bitter, a little like crabapples. One can also pick them and use them in recipes and to make tea. They are ripe when brightly colored, usually orange or red.
If you don’t have roses in your yard, you may be able to find them out in the meadows or woods where wild roses grow. The rose hips may be used fresh or dried. To dry rose hips, examine them and discard any with discoloration. Wash them in cold water, dry with paper towels, and place them on a wax paper lined cookie sheet. When they are partially dried, probably in a week or so, cut them in half and remove the seeds. A week or so later they will look wrinkly and darker and be ready to store in a glass jar in the refrigerator or freezer. Be sure to rub or cut off any stems or blossom ends. You may snack on these any time you want some energy, or use them in recipes. Anytime you use rose hips, it is recommended that you remove the seeds - whether fresh or dried. They are not poisonous, but may be irritating to some people's digestive systems.
The easiest way to use rose hips is for delicious and nutritious rose hip tea. For tea, hips may be used fresh or dried. Most of the nutrition of the rose hip is contained in the skin and just under the skin.
To make tea from fresh rose hips, steep two tablespoons of fresh cleaned hips in a cup of boiling water for ten minutes. To use dried hips, use two teaspoons of hips and simmer for ten to fifteen minutes in a cup of boiling water. Sweeten to taste with honey and enjoy your vitamin rich and fragrant tea!
If you have a lot of rose hips, you can make rose hip syrup. Wash the rose hips and put them in a non-reactive pot. (not aluminum) Just cover them with water and bring them to a boil. Then lower your heat and simmer for fifteen minutes. Strain off the resulting liquid, pressing the hips lightly with a spoon. The liquid can now be used immediately or frozen for later use. To make the syrup, add one part honey to two parts of the rose hip liquid. Dissolve the honey by stirring. The syrup can be stored for up to two weeks and may be served on pancakes, waffles, or vanilla ice cream. Tastes best if warmed.
In Sweden, they use lots of rose hips and consume them by the tons every year. They probably learned to use rose hips to have Vitamin C in the cold long winter they have in that northern country. One of their favorite recipes is Rose Hip Soup.
To make four servings of soup use the following:
3 cups of rose hip liquid (as above) fresh or frozen
2 Tablespoons honey
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Teaspoons cornstarch
In a saucepan, heat rose hip liquid and add honey and lemon juice. Remove ½ cup of the mixture and whisk cornstarch into this until smooth. Return thickened cornstarch mixture into the pan. Cook and stir until mixture bubbles and thickens. It is now ready to serve. Add a spoonful of sour cream or plain yogurt to each bowlful with a sprig of mint, if desired.
Some adventurous people even make rose hip wine.
If you are one of these people I would be glad to come and sample some of your product!
Thursday, October 27, 2005
Plant Bulbs Now!!!
Now is the perfect time to plant spring blooming bulbs. One can begin now and continue to plant bulbs until the ground is frozen. It is better, though, to finish planting daffodils by the end of October. There may be bulbs marked down at local garden stores and home centers soon, so take advantage and plant for spring color. There are nothing like spring blooming bulbs – such color and variety!
Let me provide an example of how to plant combinations of bulbs. A couple of days ago I planted spring blooming bulbs in my Bright Spot for blooms in April and also early May. I dug five holes about twenty inches or so across and about eight inches deep. In each hole I placed five fat daffodil bulbs – “Ipi Tombi,” a tall daff with a bright orange cup and yellow corona. The “points” on the bulbs should face upward. In between the daffodil bulbs and in the middle I placed seven to eight plump and shiny tulip bulbs - “Carnavel de Nice,” a double tulip with deep red and white petals. Tulip bulbs are flat on one side and rounded on the other. The rounded part goes toward the middle of the hole, as I heard someone say once – “Pregnant ladies face the table!” – now you won’t forget that. After placing the tulip and daffodil bulbs I covered them with about an inch of soil. On top of this soil I evenly arranged about ten to twelve sturdy smaller bulbs of Muscari – blue grape hyacinths. This is called “underplanting.” Grape hyacinths can be used as “markers” to remember where you have planted bulbs, as they usually soon send out fresh green foliage after planting, and also every fall after that. When my Bright Spot blooms in spring, the yellow and orange daffodils will bloom in April, and then after they are finished, the red and white tulips should come up along with the blue Muscari, providing a bright red, white, and blue color combination.
Use this layering technique to do underplantings of smaller bulbs or timed bloomings of larger bulbs using colors and bloom times for different effects. As an alternative to using Muscari, for example, plant a bunch of crocus bulbs or Scilla siberica or Galanthus nivalis (these all bloom in March) to be followed by later bloomers.
After the bulbs finish blooming – annuals can be planted in between the ripening bulb foliage. As an alternative, if you would rather have perennials take over after the bulbs bloom, it is possible to do all of the planting at the same time you plant bulbs – this is good if you are starting new beds or planting schemes. After you plant the bulbs in your big hole, place a hosta (in shady beds) on top or to the side of the partially filled hole, or a daylily for sunnier spots. Hostas and daylilies are marked down now at local garden stores, and can be safely planted until hard frosts. The daylilies and hostas will emerge slowly as the bulbs are finishing up in late spring and then their foliage will help conceal the messiness of the bulb foliage as the bulbs’ leaves continue to absorb energy for the bulbs for six weeks in very early summers.
If you already have perennials in place (as many people do), dig holes in between them. If your space is really tight, use a bulb drill bit attached to a power drill to make holes or use the “bulb planters” widely sold, or just make smaller holes with a good sturdy trowel for individual bulbs. I planted nine “Globemaster” allium bulbs in my own garden amongst Shasta daisies, roses, and other perennials. The allium bulbs are quite large and I spaced them about a foot to a foot and a half apart in between existing plants in a roughly oval pattern. I can’t wait to see these nine big purple globes next May coming up three feet tall in my front garden bed. Lately I have really become enamoured of the color purple.
In my shady beds I have all sorts of hostas, ferns, toad lilies, and other plants so I am planting individual small holes carefully in between existing plants. Here I will plant the smaller holes with a few of the “minor" bulbs in each hole, such as five Fritillaria meleagris, or five crocuses, or five Galanthus. As you can see, bulbs do not need their own beds, but can be worked into the plan you already have in place. Also keep in mind that bulbs look more attractive when planted in groups of three, five, seven or more. And please don’t line them up in straight rows – this looks artificial and contrived. Follow the way of nature and plant “clumps,” – much more appealing!
Let me provide an example of how to plant combinations of bulbs. A couple of days ago I planted spring blooming bulbs in my Bright Spot for blooms in April and also early May. I dug five holes about twenty inches or so across and about eight inches deep. In each hole I placed five fat daffodil bulbs – “Ipi Tombi,” a tall daff with a bright orange cup and yellow corona. The “points” on the bulbs should face upward. In between the daffodil bulbs and in the middle I placed seven to eight plump and shiny tulip bulbs - “Carnavel de Nice,” a double tulip with deep red and white petals. Tulip bulbs are flat on one side and rounded on the other. The rounded part goes toward the middle of the hole, as I heard someone say once – “Pregnant ladies face the table!” – now you won’t forget that. After placing the tulip and daffodil bulbs I covered them with about an inch of soil. On top of this soil I evenly arranged about ten to twelve sturdy smaller bulbs of Muscari – blue grape hyacinths. This is called “underplanting.” Grape hyacinths can be used as “markers” to remember where you have planted bulbs, as they usually soon send out fresh green foliage after planting, and also every fall after that. When my Bright Spot blooms in spring, the yellow and orange daffodils will bloom in April, and then after they are finished, the red and white tulips should come up along with the blue Muscari, providing a bright red, white, and blue color combination.
Use this layering technique to do underplantings of smaller bulbs or timed bloomings of larger bulbs using colors and bloom times for different effects. As an alternative to using Muscari, for example, plant a bunch of crocus bulbs or Scilla siberica or Galanthus nivalis (these all bloom in March) to be followed by later bloomers.
After the bulbs finish blooming – annuals can be planted in between the ripening bulb foliage. As an alternative, if you would rather have perennials take over after the bulbs bloom, it is possible to do all of the planting at the same time you plant bulbs – this is good if you are starting new beds or planting schemes. After you plant the bulbs in your big hole, place a hosta (in shady beds) on top or to the side of the partially filled hole, or a daylily for sunnier spots. Hostas and daylilies are marked down now at local garden stores, and can be safely planted until hard frosts. The daylilies and hostas will emerge slowly as the bulbs are finishing up in late spring and then their foliage will help conceal the messiness of the bulb foliage as the bulbs’ leaves continue to absorb energy for the bulbs for six weeks in very early summers.
If you already have perennials in place (as many people do), dig holes in between them. If your space is really tight, use a bulb drill bit attached to a power drill to make holes or use the “bulb planters” widely sold, or just make smaller holes with a good sturdy trowel for individual bulbs. I planted nine “Globemaster” allium bulbs in my own garden amongst Shasta daisies, roses, and other perennials. The allium bulbs are quite large and I spaced them about a foot to a foot and a half apart in between existing plants in a roughly oval pattern. I can’t wait to see these nine big purple globes next May coming up three feet tall in my front garden bed. Lately I have really become enamoured of the color purple.
In my shady beds I have all sorts of hostas, ferns, toad lilies, and other plants so I am planting individual small holes carefully in between existing plants. Here I will plant the smaller holes with a few of the “minor" bulbs in each hole, such as five Fritillaria meleagris, or five crocuses, or five Galanthus. As you can see, bulbs do not need their own beds, but can be worked into the plan you already have in place. Also keep in mind that bulbs look more attractive when planted in groups of three, five, seven or more. And please don’t line them up in straight rows – this looks artificial and contrived. Follow the way of nature and plant “clumps,” – much more appealing!
Monday, October 24, 2005
Japanese Anemone
The sparkling white blooms of the Japanese Anemone are a welcome
addition to the fall garden.
Toad Lily - Tricyrtis
Perhaps they named the Toad Lily so because of the speckled blooms, but
I think it is an ugly name for such a beautiful plant.
Blooming in fall, it is a unique alternative or addition to ordinary
"mums."
Thursday, October 13, 2005
Seed saving and other tidbits
Have you ever thought of saving seeds from some of your favorite plants? Of course, seeds are not too expensive and of course you can buy them every year – but there are several advantages to saving your own seeds from your own plants. First of all I would like to point out that only “heirloom” plants will produce seed that will grow into another plant like the parent. You can also save and plant seeds from “hybrid” plants – plants that have two different parents, but they will not produce the same plant – they will be a surprise – maybe good, maybe not. If you have the time and space, this can be fun to do. I do not have a lot of time or a lot of space so I only save heirloom type of seeds from plants in my own garden. A plant that has grown and done very well in your yard is a good choice to save seeds from. Saving seeds from veggies or fruit is generally a matter of waiting until a fruit or vegetable is very ripe – taking out the seeds, rinsing and drying them, and then saving them in labeled envelopes in a sealed jar to keep them very dry until next spring. Tomato plants’ seeds are just a little trickier to save but not difficult.
This year I had a “Mr. Stripey,” a “Pruden’s Purple,” and a “Godlove” tomato plant that all did exceptionally well. I am still picking tomatoes now for salads. I want to save seeds from these three plants that did so well for us this year. Here is how to do it and you can do it too. Take a very ripe healthy looking tomato of the variety you are choosing to save the seeds of. Cut it in half crosswise. Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds along with the sort of pulpy stuff in the “compartments” of the tomato. Put this into a clear glass cup or jar. Add a little water to make it soupy looking. Cover with a paper towel and use a rubber band to secure it across the top of the jar or cup. Now wait 2 to 4 days until you see a layer of mold cover the top of the pulp and water. It will have a “yucky” smell because it is actually fermenting. Take a fork or spoon and scoop off the mold and discard it. You will see the seeds at the bottom of the watery stuff left. Dump this all into a mesh strainer and rinse well, rubbing off the pulp with your fingers gently. Then put the washed seeds on a plate to dry. This will take several days to a week. Make sure you wait until they are absolutely dry or they might get moldy in storage. After drying them, put them in an envelope, label them, and keep the envelopes stored in a very dry place such as a glass jar with a lid. You will need to do this separately for each variety of tomato you want to save seeds from.
This is a good week to make sure to bring in all your houseplants that have summered outdoors if you have not done it already. Hose them off very well, let them drip dry and bring them into your sunniest location if they are sunlovers. If you are bringing in geraniums, scented or flowering – trim them back by a third or so. Flowering geraniums can be trimmed back by half and hung upside down from nails in the basement or in a dark closet and they will “hibernate” for the winter. I had heard about this old-time method and finally tried it a couple of years ago and it works very well. Just plant them in spring and they will start growing again. Tropical plants such as gardenias and passionflowers all need to wintered over in the house as well. If you have one or more tropical plants you purchased to enjoy this summer that you don’t have room for indoors, offer it to a friend or offer it on a local www.freecycle.org email list. Freecycle is a good way to share things you no longer want or need – check it out – www.freecycle.org.
I have also taken starts of all the coleus plants I particularly liked and rooted them in water and will be potting them up this week to winter over. That way I won’t have to buy new plants next year and I will already have the varieties I prefer and not have to search for them again – saving both time and money. Simply pinch or cut off a stem about six to eight inches long with leaves and put in water. A week or two later it will have grown a good root system and can be planted in a pot and kept as a houseplant until spring. If it gets too big, pinch it back as needed. I love coleus plants as they come in so many color combinations, are so easy to grow and really brighten shady areas.
Next week – bulb strategies.
This year I had a “Mr. Stripey,” a “Pruden’s Purple,” and a “Godlove” tomato plant that all did exceptionally well. I am still picking tomatoes now for salads. I want to save seeds from these three plants that did so well for us this year. Here is how to do it and you can do it too. Take a very ripe healthy looking tomato of the variety you are choosing to save the seeds of. Cut it in half crosswise. Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds along with the sort of pulpy stuff in the “compartments” of the tomato. Put this into a clear glass cup or jar. Add a little water to make it soupy looking. Cover with a paper towel and use a rubber band to secure it across the top of the jar or cup. Now wait 2 to 4 days until you see a layer of mold cover the top of the pulp and water. It will have a “yucky” smell because it is actually fermenting. Take a fork or spoon and scoop off the mold and discard it. You will see the seeds at the bottom of the watery stuff left. Dump this all into a mesh strainer and rinse well, rubbing off the pulp with your fingers gently. Then put the washed seeds on a plate to dry. This will take several days to a week. Make sure you wait until they are absolutely dry or they might get moldy in storage. After drying them, put them in an envelope, label them, and keep the envelopes stored in a very dry place such as a glass jar with a lid. You will need to do this separately for each variety of tomato you want to save seeds from.
This is a good week to make sure to bring in all your houseplants that have summered outdoors if you have not done it already. Hose them off very well, let them drip dry and bring them into your sunniest location if they are sunlovers. If you are bringing in geraniums, scented or flowering – trim them back by a third or so. Flowering geraniums can be trimmed back by half and hung upside down from nails in the basement or in a dark closet and they will “hibernate” for the winter. I had heard about this old-time method and finally tried it a couple of years ago and it works very well. Just plant them in spring and they will start growing again. Tropical plants such as gardenias and passionflowers all need to wintered over in the house as well. If you have one or more tropical plants you purchased to enjoy this summer that you don’t have room for indoors, offer it to a friend or offer it on a local www.freecycle.org email list. Freecycle is a good way to share things you no longer want or need – check it out – www.freecycle.org.
I have also taken starts of all the coleus plants I particularly liked and rooted them in water and will be potting them up this week to winter over. That way I won’t have to buy new plants next year and I will already have the varieties I prefer and not have to search for them again – saving both time and money. Simply pinch or cut off a stem about six to eight inches long with leaves and put in water. A week or two later it will have grown a good root system and can be planted in a pot and kept as a houseplant until spring. If it gets too big, pinch it back as needed. I love coleus plants as they come in so many color combinations, are so easy to grow and really brighten shady areas.
Next week – bulb strategies.
Tuesday, October 04, 2005
Fall Musings
No spring, nor summer beauty hath such grace
As I have seen in one autumnal face;
—John Donne (1572–1631) "Elegy IX: The Autumnal"
I went to the Middfest on Sunday and as usual for the past twenty-five years, was not disappointed. There were a wealth of things to learn and to enjoy. I thoroughly enjoyed the native plant display that provided valuable information to encourage the use of native plants and to discourage the use of invasive non-native plants. I had not been to the Plaza in a long while and was delighted with the plantings in the long walkway that passes the Manchester Hotel and the AIM building on the way to the City Building. The beds overflowed and billowed with naturalistically designed mass plantings of tall red salvia and a shorter yellow blooming plant – Melampodium. Both plants are drought tolerant, long blooming, and easy to grow. I would like to know the name of the red salvia – I am sure it attracts hummingbirds. The water features had tall white salvia and “Alaska” nasturtiums. Whoever is responsible for these plantings, I would like to say to them – “Well Done!”
I was busy this week in my garden. I have neglected it lately because of the heat and other activities. There was an enormous rosebush, a “Constance Spry,” that became infected with a virus that causes abnormal canes. It had also simply become too large for my modest yard. For several months now I have been meaning to take it out. On one of the cooler days we had last week, I finally got the heavy duty pruners, the elbow length leather rose gloves and set to work. Two hours and three large trash cans full of thorny rose canes later I was near done. The big roots remained, but I think I will let my husband Ron tackle those this weekend while I am at work. Removing this behemoth of a rose opened up a new planting area for me and I am delighted to have room to add more plants. One of the first plants I added was a Willow Leaf Sunflower given to me by my gardening friend Teresa. On a recent visit to her garden she had a Monkshood in full bloom. This is a shade perennial that blooms in early fall in a beautiful shade of blue. The plant is poisonous but then, many plants are as well, including Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Castor Oil Plant and even daffodils. I will write a future column on these common plants that many are unaware are poisonous. Toad lilies (Tricyrtis) are now in full bloom in my garden and others’ gardens along with the gorgeous Japanese Anemone – “Honorine Jobert.” I think these two are among the most beautiful of all perennials - in fall and other wise.
Last week I finally placed my large bulb order and am eagerly awaiting the plump bulbs to plant in my garden and also in my Bright Spot for all to enjoy. I will be sharing more bulb planting tips next week as the time to do this draws near. Planting can certainly start in the next couple of weeks and can continue until November as long as the ground is not frozen.
All the Bright Spots in town have certainly looked good this summer and I know how difficult it was to keep them watered during the dry summer we have had. Kudos to Denise Hall for organizing this wonderful program that helps keep our city more attractive.
Gold of a ripe oat straw, gold of a southwest moon,
Canada thistle blue and flimmering larkspur blue,
Tomatoes shining in the October sun with red hearts,
—Carl Sandburg (1878–1967) "Cornhuskers," Falltime (1918)
As I have seen in one autumnal face;
—John Donne (1572–1631) "Elegy IX: The Autumnal"
I went to the Middfest on Sunday and as usual for the past twenty-five years, was not disappointed. There were a wealth of things to learn and to enjoy. I thoroughly enjoyed the native plant display that provided valuable information to encourage the use of native plants and to discourage the use of invasive non-native plants. I had not been to the Plaza in a long while and was delighted with the plantings in the long walkway that passes the Manchester Hotel and the AIM building on the way to the City Building. The beds overflowed and billowed with naturalistically designed mass plantings of tall red salvia and a shorter yellow blooming plant – Melampodium. Both plants are drought tolerant, long blooming, and easy to grow. I would like to know the name of the red salvia – I am sure it attracts hummingbirds. The water features had tall white salvia and “Alaska” nasturtiums. Whoever is responsible for these plantings, I would like to say to them – “Well Done!”
I was busy this week in my garden. I have neglected it lately because of the heat and other activities. There was an enormous rosebush, a “Constance Spry,” that became infected with a virus that causes abnormal canes. It had also simply become too large for my modest yard. For several months now I have been meaning to take it out. On one of the cooler days we had last week, I finally got the heavy duty pruners, the elbow length leather rose gloves and set to work. Two hours and three large trash cans full of thorny rose canes later I was near done. The big roots remained, but I think I will let my husband Ron tackle those this weekend while I am at work. Removing this behemoth of a rose opened up a new planting area for me and I am delighted to have room to add more plants. One of the first plants I added was a Willow Leaf Sunflower given to me by my gardening friend Teresa. On a recent visit to her garden she had a Monkshood in full bloom. This is a shade perennial that blooms in early fall in a beautiful shade of blue. The plant is poisonous but then, many plants are as well, including Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Castor Oil Plant and even daffodils. I will write a future column on these common plants that many are unaware are poisonous. Toad lilies (Tricyrtis) are now in full bloom in my garden and others’ gardens along with the gorgeous Japanese Anemone – “Honorine Jobert.” I think these two are among the most beautiful of all perennials - in fall and other wise.
Last week I finally placed my large bulb order and am eagerly awaiting the plump bulbs to plant in my garden and also in my Bright Spot for all to enjoy. I will be sharing more bulb planting tips next week as the time to do this draws near. Planting can certainly start in the next couple of weeks and can continue until November as long as the ground is not frozen.
All the Bright Spots in town have certainly looked good this summer and I know how difficult it was to keep them watered during the dry summer we have had. Kudos to Denise Hall for organizing this wonderful program that helps keep our city more attractive.
Gold of a ripe oat straw, gold of a southwest moon,
Canada thistle blue and flimmering larkspur blue,
Tomatoes shining in the October sun with red hearts,
—Carl Sandburg (1878–1967) "Cornhuskers," Falltime (1918)
Monday, September 26, 2005
Ray and Nadia
Here are Ray and Nadia standing under a bower of their Morning Glories
aside their home.
Downtown Dacha
Nadia and Ray Hicks of Central Ave. have worked hard on their downtown “dacha”.
Dachas are country plots in Russia for city dwellers to have a place to garden and just to “get away” from the city. Ray and his Russian born wife Nadia have turned that concept around and created a dacha in the heart of downtown Middletown. It is truly a lovely sight when traveling down Central Ave. toward the downtown area. There are always things in bloom during the entire growing season. Right now there are both hardy hibiscus and Rose of Sharon of all sorts blooming throughout the yard with Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Morning Glories, roses, gorgeous fall blooming iris, purple and white phlox, dahlias, Moonflower Datura, and more.
Ray and Nadia Hicks moved into their home eight years ago. At that time, the property was run as a boarding house for about eight people, and the yard was bare with a rickety wooden fence. With determination, imagination and a vision of a “downtown dacha” the couple set to work and created a beautiful garden. To create the “bones” of the garden, the couple used the Middletown Antique Mall across the street as a resource and purchased antique iron fencing and gates to provide a “frame” for the pretty garden picture. Statues and unusual garden ornaments are artfully arranged here and there throughout the yard. A pleasant and cozy outdoor sitting area has been created between the former carriage house and horse “barn.” The couple likes to sit here and have tea and coffee. The interior of the house was also completely refurbished and redone, and the couple furnished it with antiques, again, from the Middletown Antique Mall.
Ray and Nadia are constantly exchanging smiles and glances and almost glow with happiness. She says “He plants everything and I take care of it.” They have been married for nine years. Nadia was born in a small village five hours south of Moscow. At the age of twenty, she left the village and went to work and live in St. Petersburg, formerly Leningrad. At 45, Nadia was ready for a new adventure. In the post Soviet era, she was able to obtain a work visa to work in the USA. Ray met Nadia at a friend’s home and immediately they were attracted to each other. Not too long afterwards they were married and have been together ever since, except for a time after the events of September 11, 2001. Nadia was in Russia visiting her relatives at the time and then had a great deal of trouble and red tape returning to her husband Ray. Ray worked hard to get her back home and stayed busy working in their garden to occupy the two years and seven months they were apart. Her parents still live in the village of Mourom –they are both in their eighties now. They have a garden and are still actively gardening. The couple go to visit her parents and her married daughter every year. Her daughter Julia lives in St. Petersburg, Russia with her husband Alexei and her children Olya and Ilyusha. Ray spoke of the beauty of St. Petersburg with its onion domes and beautiful buildings all set against the backdrop of the Neva River. After all their hard work and efforts that have provided a very attractive spot in the downtown area, the couple is ready to embark on a new adventure. They are selling their lovely home and are moving to Marshall Rd. There they will have a new garden and already are making plans for it. Ray and Nadia will be taking starts from this garden they have lovingly created to plant at their new home.
Dachas are country plots in Russia for city dwellers to have a place to garden and just to “get away” from the city. Ray and his Russian born wife Nadia have turned that concept around and created a dacha in the heart of downtown Middletown. It is truly a lovely sight when traveling down Central Ave. toward the downtown area. There are always things in bloom during the entire growing season. Right now there are both hardy hibiscus and Rose of Sharon of all sorts blooming throughout the yard with Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Morning Glories, roses, gorgeous fall blooming iris, purple and white phlox, dahlias, Moonflower Datura, and more.
Ray and Nadia Hicks moved into their home eight years ago. At that time, the property was run as a boarding house for about eight people, and the yard was bare with a rickety wooden fence. With determination, imagination and a vision of a “downtown dacha” the couple set to work and created a beautiful garden. To create the “bones” of the garden, the couple used the Middletown Antique Mall across the street as a resource and purchased antique iron fencing and gates to provide a “frame” for the pretty garden picture. Statues and unusual garden ornaments are artfully arranged here and there throughout the yard. A pleasant and cozy outdoor sitting area has been created between the former carriage house and horse “barn.” The couple likes to sit here and have tea and coffee. The interior of the house was also completely refurbished and redone, and the couple furnished it with antiques, again, from the Middletown Antique Mall.
Ray and Nadia are constantly exchanging smiles and glances and almost glow with happiness. She says “He plants everything and I take care of it.” They have been married for nine years. Nadia was born in a small village five hours south of Moscow. At the age of twenty, she left the village and went to work and live in St. Petersburg, formerly Leningrad. At 45, Nadia was ready for a new adventure. In the post Soviet era, she was able to obtain a work visa to work in the USA. Ray met Nadia at a friend’s home and immediately they were attracted to each other. Not too long afterwards they were married and have been together ever since, except for a time after the events of September 11, 2001. Nadia was in Russia visiting her relatives at the time and then had a great deal of trouble and red tape returning to her husband Ray. Ray worked hard to get her back home and stayed busy working in their garden to occupy the two years and seven months they were apart. Her parents still live in the village of Mourom –they are both in their eighties now. They have a garden and are still actively gardening. The couple go to visit her parents and her married daughter every year. Her daughter Julia lives in St. Petersburg, Russia with her husband Alexei and her children Olya and Ilyusha. Ray spoke of the beauty of St. Petersburg with its onion domes and beautiful buildings all set against the backdrop of the Neva River. After all their hard work and efforts that have provided a very attractive spot in the downtown area, the couple is ready to embark on a new adventure. They are selling their lovely home and are moving to Marshall Rd. There they will have a new garden and already are making plans for it. Ray and Nadia will be taking starts from this garden they have lovingly created to plant at their new home.
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Fall To Do List
Fall is a wonderful time to work in your garden. The weather is cooler and there is almost always more rain than in summer. more rain means less time watering and more time to work in the garden. There are many garden tasks best accomplished in autumn.
Your lawn may have some bare patches – did you know that fall is the best time to plant grass seed? Grass sown in autumn has two growing seasons to get strong and established - fall and spring. Sown in fall, it has the added benefit of cooler fall temps and less weeds germinating, The six weeks from Sept. 15 to Oct. 31 is the time to do this.
Another thing to do to help your lawn is to put down some pre-emergent weed killer. In this category, since I am a devotee of only organic methods – I recommend using something like WOW Plus, sold by www.gardensalive.com. What is this? It is a natural byproduct of corn syrup production to spread on your lawn that will both prevent weeds from germinating now and in the spring and will also feed your lawn. After applying it, kids and pets can immediately play on the lawn with no ill effects whatsoever – it is totally harmless.
This product will suppress seed germination of grass as well, so should be applied only after any newly sown grass has had a little growth.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees. Since most people don’t think about this fact, plant nurseries mark down their remaining stock in the fall. Take advantage of this and scope out what your local garden center has to offer. I have gotten some excellent bargains by scouting out reduced nursery stock in fall. Perennials, shrubs and trees planted now will develop a good strong root system and will be raring to go in the spring. They will far surpass things planted in spring with the benefit of the fall season and the dormant period of the winter season. For perennials, try to plant by mid October at the latest.
For early, mid and late spring blooms now is the time to plant bulbs. Have you admired daffodils, tulips, and other bright blooms in spring when your own garden was just bare – waiting for the last frost date to get started in your yard? If you plant a selection of bulbs in the fall, you too can have color and beauty starting in March. Bulbs can be planted from e
Your lawn may have some bare patches – did you know that fall is the best time to plant grass seed? Grass sown in autumn has two growing seasons to get strong and established - fall and spring. Sown in fall, it has the added benefit of cooler fall temps and less weeds germinating, The six weeks from Sept. 15 to Oct. 31 is the time to do this.
Another thing to do to help your lawn is to put down some pre-emergent weed killer. In this category, since I am a devotee of only organic methods – I recommend using something like WOW Plus, sold by www.gardensalive.com. What is this? It is a natural byproduct of corn syrup production to spread on your lawn that will both prevent weeds from germinating now and in the spring and will also feed your lawn. After applying it, kids and pets can immediately play on the lawn with no ill effects whatsoever – it is totally harmless.
This product will suppress seed germination of grass as well, so should be applied only after any newly sown grass has had a little growth.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees. Since most people don’t think about this fact, plant nurseries mark down their remaining stock in the fall. Take advantage of this and scope out what your local garden center has to offer. I have gotten some excellent bargains by scouting out reduced nursery stock in fall. Perennials, shrubs and trees planted now will develop a good strong root system and will be raring to go in the spring. They will far surpass things planted in spring with the benefit of the fall season and the dormant period of the winter season. For perennials, try to plant by mid October at the latest.
For early, mid and late spring blooms now is the time to plant bulbs. Have you admired daffodils, tulips, and other bright blooms in spring when your own garden was just bare – waiting for the last frost date to get started in your yard? If you plant a selection of bulbs in the fall, you too can have color and beauty starting in March. Bulbs can be planted from e
Friday, September 16, 2005
More Great Bulbs To Plant
In talking about bulbs to plant in fall, I have covered tulips and daffodils. There are many other bulbs to plant for interesting and beautiful displays in spring and even into summer.
The first bulbs to show their little heads in the chilly days of March (sometimes even in late February) are the sweet white blooms of snowdrops (Galanthus). Plant a few of these to give you hope of spring in those last dark days of winter. I have a neighbor that has a large colony of hundreds of these under a tree, but a dozen or so planted near a walkway that you pass daily would be enough to brighten some gloomy March days. A good variety is Galanthus elwesii. Galanthus nivalis “Flore Pleno” is a double snowdrop with green tipped petals – also quite sweet.
The next to arrive on the spring bulb scene are crocuses. Definitely choose the ones named “Giant Crocus,” as the smaller ones are really tiny. Deer do not bother these bulbs, and they will even come up through snow. Another early bloomer that is quite stunning and also deerproof, is the diminutive Rockgarden Iris – Iris reticulata. They bloom in early April and are available for your garden in a few colors, but far and away my favorite is “Harmony,” with its pert little blooms with two shades of blue - accented with yellow and white. Another variety that sounds very promising is the new Iris reticulata “Gordon,” with blooms of blue, violet, and bits of orange and white.
Chionodoxa are another short early bulb also called “Glory of the Snow.” Available in blue or white, I prefer the blue heirloom variety Chionodoxa forbesii (circa 1880), which will bear between four to twelve precious little blooms per bulb. Scilla siberica is also a must have. The only Scilla I plant is this one as it bears tiny bright blue flowers and looks wonderful planted around daffodils as an underplanting.
The more of these small bulbs the better and you can plant them all in your lawn in groups and en masse. These small bulbs only need to be planted three or four inches deep. I use a dibbler, a tool that pokes holes in the soil and then drop a bulb in each hole. You can also use a bulb drill or just take a spade and lift a portion of your turf (like a flap) and put a few bulbs underneath and pat back into place. To get a natural effect – take a handful of bulbs, hold them while standing above the planting area, drop them, and then plant where they land. All the bulbs I mentioned are short early bloomers so when you are ready to cut the grass they won’t be harmed.
There are a few very unique bulbs bearing the name Fritillaria that you won’t regret planting. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) is the queen of the group. They burst from the ground in late April with a thick cluster of foliage, grow to two feet tall and then have a “crown” of either yellow or burnt orange circular clusters of bell shaped flowers. Almost other-wordly, they have an odd “foxy” smell that repels rodents, so good to plant with tulips to protect them from the little scavengers. Fritillaria meleagris (Checkered Lily or Guinea Hen Flower) is another very unique bulb that bears nodding bells of ~yes~ actual checkered purple and white flowers on slender stems about a foot high. At $16.50 per hundred in my Van Engelen catalog - I am planting a hundred in my cool moist hosta bed to make a show before the hostas even think about unfurling their leaves.
To make a big statement in May and June plant some Alliums. These are in the onion family and come in all sorts of heights, sizes, and colors, usually with globe shaped blooms. For years I have been longing to plant some of the “Globemaster” alliums with their huge round flower clusters (10” across) on 24 to 36 inch stems. There was a stunning display of them at the new Veteran’s Memorial at Woodside Cemetery this past May. This is the year I will plant some. At $5 or $6 a bulb or more, they are pricey but so worth it for years of dramatic purple blooms every late May. There are other varieties as well – and they are all deer resistant. “Firmamament” is another tall Allium with 8” purple flowers with a silvery sheen.
As you can see, if one gets busy and plants a variety of bulbs – one may have blooms from March to June before the humdrum annuals even get going.
The first bulbs to show their little heads in the chilly days of March (sometimes even in late February) are the sweet white blooms of snowdrops (Galanthus). Plant a few of these to give you hope of spring in those last dark days of winter. I have a neighbor that has a large colony of hundreds of these under a tree, but a dozen or so planted near a walkway that you pass daily would be enough to brighten some gloomy March days. A good variety is Galanthus elwesii. Galanthus nivalis “Flore Pleno” is a double snowdrop with green tipped petals – also quite sweet.
The next to arrive on the spring bulb scene are crocuses. Definitely choose the ones named “Giant Crocus,” as the smaller ones are really tiny. Deer do not bother these bulbs, and they will even come up through snow. Another early bloomer that is quite stunning and also deerproof, is the diminutive Rockgarden Iris – Iris reticulata. They bloom in early April and are available for your garden in a few colors, but far and away my favorite is “Harmony,” with its pert little blooms with two shades of blue - accented with yellow and white. Another variety that sounds very promising is the new Iris reticulata “Gordon,” with blooms of blue, violet, and bits of orange and white.
Chionodoxa are another short early bulb also called “Glory of the Snow.” Available in blue or white, I prefer the blue heirloom variety Chionodoxa forbesii (circa 1880), which will bear between four to twelve precious little blooms per bulb. Scilla siberica is also a must have. The only Scilla I plant is this one as it bears tiny bright blue flowers and looks wonderful planted around daffodils as an underplanting.
The more of these small bulbs the better and you can plant them all in your lawn in groups and en masse. These small bulbs only need to be planted three or four inches deep. I use a dibbler, a tool that pokes holes in the soil and then drop a bulb in each hole. You can also use a bulb drill or just take a spade and lift a portion of your turf (like a flap) and put a few bulbs underneath and pat back into place. To get a natural effect – take a handful of bulbs, hold them while standing above the planting area, drop them, and then plant where they land. All the bulbs I mentioned are short early bloomers so when you are ready to cut the grass they won’t be harmed.
There are a few very unique bulbs bearing the name Fritillaria that you won’t regret planting. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) is the queen of the group. They burst from the ground in late April with a thick cluster of foliage, grow to two feet tall and then have a “crown” of either yellow or burnt orange circular clusters of bell shaped flowers. Almost other-wordly, they have an odd “foxy” smell that repels rodents, so good to plant with tulips to protect them from the little scavengers. Fritillaria meleagris (Checkered Lily or Guinea Hen Flower) is another very unique bulb that bears nodding bells of ~yes~ actual checkered purple and white flowers on slender stems about a foot high. At $16.50 per hundred in my Van Engelen catalog - I am planting a hundred in my cool moist hosta bed to make a show before the hostas even think about unfurling their leaves.
To make a big statement in May and June plant some Alliums. These are in the onion family and come in all sorts of heights, sizes, and colors, usually with globe shaped blooms. For years I have been longing to plant some of the “Globemaster” alliums with their huge round flower clusters (10” across) on 24 to 36 inch stems. There was a stunning display of them at the new Veteran’s Memorial at Woodside Cemetery this past May. This is the year I will plant some. At $5 or $6 a bulb or more, they are pricey but so worth it for years of dramatic purple blooms every late May. There are other varieties as well – and they are all deer resistant. “Firmamament” is another tall Allium with 8” purple flowers with a silvery sheen.
As you can see, if one gets busy and plants a variety of bulbs – one may have blooms from March to June before the humdrum annuals even get going.
Tuesday, September 13, 2005
Not an Ordinary Gardener
Teresa Wesselman is not a run of the mill gardener. She seeks out the different and the unusual. Even now in September, she has things in bloom that are out of the ordinary – yellow corydalis, Tricyrtis “Samurai,” Asclepias curassavica, and others.
How did her interest in gardening begin? Teresa cannot remember when she has not been interested in growing things. At this point Teresa estimates that she has at least 250 different varieties of perennial, bulbs, vines, and shrubs in her city sized lot.
Many unusual specimens can be found on a tour of her garden. While Teresa shows me around her yard, her love of her plants is plainly visible – she knows all the Latin names of her plants, their growing habits, their individual idiosyncrasies, and their cultivation needs.
Ephedra regia dates back to prehistoric times, and a specimen of it now lives in Teresa’s trough planter. Her bog planter has Horsetail rush and Corkscrew Rush, an oddity that is fun to see. A twig trellis features a climbing annual vine – “Love in a Puff” or Cardiospermum halicacabum. There is a plant with lovely foliage and unusual seedpods called Prairie Mimosa or Desmanthes illinoensis in her large sunny round mixed bed. In spring and into summer her shady beds feature plants such as Jack in the Pulpit, Uvularia, Corydalis, Tricyrtis, Anemonella thalictroides (Rue anemone), Birdsfoot violet, Hepatica, and Cimicifuga (Snakeroot). She has also planted some unusual hostas such as “Ghost Spirit.” This variety needs fairly dense shade to retain its unusual white color. Teresa has tried to include plants from A – Amsonia to Z – Zizia in her very personalized garden.
Some of her sunny areas include some really wonderful specimens. Berlandiera lyrata - “Chocolate Flower,” blooms for at least three months and smells deliciously just like chocolate. Caryopteris divaricata “Snow Fairy,” features beautifully variegated leaves and is just starting to open its many blue flowers. It will continue to bloom into October and is a small shrub to three feet tall and wide. The foliage smells just like cut up green peppers.
There are several overflowing containers on Teresa’s deck and around her yard. They are not planted with the typical and predictable (some would say boring) petunias or geraniums, but are creatively planted with intriguing combinations of Black and Blue Salvia (hummingbird favorite), Bat Face Cuphea, White Nymph salvia, Lotus vine, Gartenmeister fuschia with tubular coral blooms and various varieties of colorful coleus.
One of Teresa’ favorite flowers is the Columbine and she grows 17 varieties. Some of her more unusual columbines are Chocolate Soldier, Dorothy Rose, Ruby Port and her personal favorite - Nana Alba – a pure white columbine with short spurs.
Teresa’s fiancé Ted is supportive of her love of plants and has dutifully done quite a bit of planting, digging and mulching. Ted, an avid woodworker, recently completed a really lovely greenhouse for Teresa, to allow her to extend the growing season, and to winter over some more tender specimens that will not tolerate Ohio winters.
Teresa’s love of plants extends to her choice of profession. She works in the Perennial Dept. at Bern’s Garden Center, so is always aware of the newest arrivals to perhaps add to her garden. Teresa enjoys working among the plants she so loves. She also goes online frequently to learn more about plants she is interested in, and to shop for the more unusual varieties that are difficult to find locally.
Fall plans for Teresa include soon ordering and planting some unusual fall bulbs – Tulipa oculata – a white species tulip with a bluish base, Tulipa acuminata – another species tulip that is yellow with scarlet edges, a Triandrus Narcissi called “Katy Heath,” Fritillaria pudica – with bright yellow bell shaped blooms with purple tinged edges, Fritillaria pallidiflora – chartreuse blooms with reddish brown spots, and Brodiaea coccinea – that will sport blooms that resemble little firecrackers and also will attract hummingbirds in late spring.
Hummingbird feeders are hung here and there in Teresa’s garden and she loves to sit on her deck in the early evenings watching them feed. Teresa will be the first to say that her garden is very much a “work in progress.” She is always lovingly adding new plants, ruthlessly ripping out old ones that no longer serve her purpose, and moving things to satisfy her garden vision at the moment, so there is always something new to see and enjoy in her garden.
How did her interest in gardening begin? Teresa cannot remember when she has not been interested in growing things. At this point Teresa estimates that she has at least 250 different varieties of perennial, bulbs, vines, and shrubs in her city sized lot.
Many unusual specimens can be found on a tour of her garden. While Teresa shows me around her yard, her love of her plants is plainly visible – she knows all the Latin names of her plants, their growing habits, their individual idiosyncrasies, and their cultivation needs.
Ephedra regia dates back to prehistoric times, and a specimen of it now lives in Teresa’s trough planter. Her bog planter has Horsetail rush and Corkscrew Rush, an oddity that is fun to see. A twig trellis features a climbing annual vine – “Love in a Puff” or Cardiospermum halicacabum. There is a plant with lovely foliage and unusual seedpods called Prairie Mimosa or Desmanthes illinoensis in her large sunny round mixed bed. In spring and into summer her shady beds feature plants such as Jack in the Pulpit, Uvularia, Corydalis, Tricyrtis, Anemonella thalictroides (Rue anemone), Birdsfoot violet, Hepatica, and Cimicifuga (Snakeroot). She has also planted some unusual hostas such as “Ghost Spirit.” This variety needs fairly dense shade to retain its unusual white color. Teresa has tried to include plants from A – Amsonia to Z – Zizia in her very personalized garden.
Some of her sunny areas include some really wonderful specimens. Berlandiera lyrata - “Chocolate Flower,” blooms for at least three months and smells deliciously just like chocolate. Caryopteris divaricata “Snow Fairy,” features beautifully variegated leaves and is just starting to open its many blue flowers. It will continue to bloom into October and is a small shrub to three feet tall and wide. The foliage smells just like cut up green peppers.
There are several overflowing containers on Teresa’s deck and around her yard. They are not planted with the typical and predictable (some would say boring) petunias or geraniums, but are creatively planted with intriguing combinations of Black and Blue Salvia (hummingbird favorite), Bat Face Cuphea, White Nymph salvia, Lotus vine, Gartenmeister fuschia with tubular coral blooms and various varieties of colorful coleus.
One of Teresa’ favorite flowers is the Columbine and she grows 17 varieties. Some of her more unusual columbines are Chocolate Soldier, Dorothy Rose, Ruby Port and her personal favorite - Nana Alba – a pure white columbine with short spurs.
Teresa’s fiancé Ted is supportive of her love of plants and has dutifully done quite a bit of planting, digging and mulching. Ted, an avid woodworker, recently completed a really lovely greenhouse for Teresa, to allow her to extend the growing season, and to winter over some more tender specimens that will not tolerate Ohio winters.
Teresa’s love of plants extends to her choice of profession. She works in the Perennial Dept. at Bern’s Garden Center, so is always aware of the newest arrivals to perhaps add to her garden. Teresa enjoys working among the plants she so loves. She also goes online frequently to learn more about plants she is interested in, and to shop for the more unusual varieties that are difficult to find locally.
Fall plans for Teresa include soon ordering and planting some unusual fall bulbs – Tulipa oculata – a white species tulip with a bluish base, Tulipa acuminata – another species tulip that is yellow with scarlet edges, a Triandrus Narcissi called “Katy Heath,” Fritillaria pudica – with bright yellow bell shaped blooms with purple tinged edges, Fritillaria pallidiflora – chartreuse blooms with reddish brown spots, and Brodiaea coccinea – that will sport blooms that resemble little firecrackers and also will attract hummingbirds in late spring.
Hummingbird feeders are hung here and there in Teresa’s garden and she loves to sit on her deck in the early evenings watching them feed. Teresa will be the first to say that her garden is very much a “work in progress.” She is always lovingly adding new plants, ruthlessly ripping out old ones that no longer serve her purpose, and moving things to satisfy her garden vision at the moment, so there is always something new to see and enjoy in her garden.
Tulips!!!
This week – Tulips! You know you want tulips in spring with their bright showy colors. The range of variation in tulips is so wide, you are sure to find one or three or twenty you just HAVE to have.
Concerning whether the tulips you select will perennialize, the truth is most tulips do not come back well for years. Most bloom well for two or three years and are then done. Consider this your opportunity to redo your color scheme every couple of years. There are so many variations in tulips you will want to try many. Species tulips will perennialize better than most. These are smaller but can still have a big impact. They look good tucked here and there in such places as rock gardens. For big presence and faithfully returning year after year choose Darwin Hybrid tulips. These are available in a range of colors and combinations of colors. Most of these are about two feet in height with huge flowers. “Banja Luka” is a very striking Darwin Hybrid with deep yellow petals accented with bold markings of bright red. “Ollioules” (don’t ask me how to pronounce this), “Elizabeth Arden” and “Pink Impression” are three excellent selections for those of you who like pink like I do.
For a fantastic variety in color try some “Triumph” tulips. One can plant some very striking color combinations using the many varieties available. Greigii tulips are unique with their mottled leaves and also gorgeous flowers. Since I have such fond memories of my two trips to Russia, I think I will plant the Greigii tulip – “Tsar Peter.”
Lily flowering tulips are just what they claim – they resemble lilies with their pointed petals and narrow graceful blooms. “Marilyn” is white edged with a startling red. “Westpoint” is a lovely yellow. With red petals and gold tips, “Queen of Sheba” is a striking lily flowered choice.
For all of you who like something very different in your gardens – no plain red tulips for you! – try the Parrot tulips. I have had these return for a few years quite well and I really love them. Their petals are curled and twisted in bizarre shapes in some awesome colors. My favorite is Black Parrot – a dark purple black. I would love to be able to plant a group of fifty of these – alas – haven’t the room. Apricot Parrot is also stunning in a combination of cream, yellow, pink, and green – it has won several awards.
Another unusual tulip variety are the Viridiflora tulips. They last a long time and have prominent green feather markings on their petals. My favorite of these is “Greenland” with cream petals looking as if they were dipped in rose colored paint and accented with spring green feather markings on the sides.
Peony flowering tulips are just that – they resemble peonies with fully double petals. My two favorites here are “Black Hero,” a very dark near-black purple and “Angelique,” an ethereal blend of cream and pink.
Fringed Tulips aka “Crispa Tulips” add an elegant and beautiful look to your spring garden with their petals that are edged with a fine delicate looking fringe. There is one that is nearly breath taking – “Cummins” – lavender with prominent white-fringed edges – but they are all beautiful.
In conclusion I would like to say no matter what tulip you decide to select it will always be an excellent choice. You will definitely enjoy their bright blooms come spring.
Perennial Spotlight on: Variegated Filipendula
This is a shade/part shade perennial that has gorgeously marked leaves. It reaches about three feet tall eventually. Mine is at two feet and is two years old. The small but attractive blooms are somewhat like astilbes, are fragrant in a creamy white color, and flower in July. The foliage is what I really love. It is a wonderful bright contrast in a mixed shade bed of other shade lovers – hostas, ferns, meadow rue, hellebores, etc. It likes moist soil and dislikes full sun.
Concerning whether the tulips you select will perennialize, the truth is most tulips do not come back well for years. Most bloom well for two or three years and are then done. Consider this your opportunity to redo your color scheme every couple of years. There are so many variations in tulips you will want to try many. Species tulips will perennialize better than most. These are smaller but can still have a big impact. They look good tucked here and there in such places as rock gardens. For big presence and faithfully returning year after year choose Darwin Hybrid tulips. These are available in a range of colors and combinations of colors. Most of these are about two feet in height with huge flowers. “Banja Luka” is a very striking Darwin Hybrid with deep yellow petals accented with bold markings of bright red. “Ollioules” (don’t ask me how to pronounce this), “Elizabeth Arden” and “Pink Impression” are three excellent selections for those of you who like pink like I do.
For a fantastic variety in color try some “Triumph” tulips. One can plant some very striking color combinations using the many varieties available. Greigii tulips are unique with their mottled leaves and also gorgeous flowers. Since I have such fond memories of my two trips to Russia, I think I will plant the Greigii tulip – “Tsar Peter.”
Lily flowering tulips are just what they claim – they resemble lilies with their pointed petals and narrow graceful blooms. “Marilyn” is white edged with a startling red. “Westpoint” is a lovely yellow. With red petals and gold tips, “Queen of Sheba” is a striking lily flowered choice.
For all of you who like something very different in your gardens – no plain red tulips for you! – try the Parrot tulips. I have had these return for a few years quite well and I really love them. Their petals are curled and twisted in bizarre shapes in some awesome colors. My favorite is Black Parrot – a dark purple black. I would love to be able to plant a group of fifty of these – alas – haven’t the room. Apricot Parrot is also stunning in a combination of cream, yellow, pink, and green – it has won several awards.
Another unusual tulip variety are the Viridiflora tulips. They last a long time and have prominent green feather markings on their petals. My favorite of these is “Greenland” with cream petals looking as if they were dipped in rose colored paint and accented with spring green feather markings on the sides.
Peony flowering tulips are just that – they resemble peonies with fully double petals. My two favorites here are “Black Hero,” a very dark near-black purple and “Angelique,” an ethereal blend of cream and pink.
Fringed Tulips aka “Crispa Tulips” add an elegant and beautiful look to your spring garden with their petals that are edged with a fine delicate looking fringe. There is one that is nearly breath taking – “Cummins” – lavender with prominent white-fringed edges – but they are all beautiful.
In conclusion I would like to say no matter what tulip you decide to select it will always be an excellent choice. You will definitely enjoy their bright blooms come spring.
Perennial Spotlight on: Variegated Filipendula
This is a shade/part shade perennial that has gorgeously marked leaves. It reaches about three feet tall eventually. Mine is at two feet and is two years old. The small but attractive blooms are somewhat like astilbes, are fragrant in a creamy white color, and flower in July. The foliage is what I really love. It is a wonderful bright contrast in a mixed shade bed of other shade lovers – hostas, ferns, meadow rue, hellebores, etc. It likes moist soil and dislikes full sun.
Monday, August 08, 2005
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