Happy Holidays or Merry Christmas? There has been a controversy over whether it is good to say one or the other. Personally if someone wishes me to be “Merry” or to be “Happy” – I am glad either way. Our entire Christmas celebration is filled with customs adopted or borrowed from other lands and cultures, so I think we should all be more tolerant and forgiving in the Spirit of Christmas.
The date we celebrate Christmas comes from Ancient Rome, when the Emperor Aurelius declared December 25 as “The Birthday of the Unconquered Son”. The ancient Persians also celebrated Dec. 25 as the birthday of another god –Mithras. Christians did not even note the day of his birth until the fourth century. Even then, many church fathers were opposed to celebrating Christ’s birth, as they considered His death and resurrection much more important, and thought any sort of celebrating God/Christ’s birthday as pagan. “Pagans” typically celebrated the birthdays of their gods, and no mention is made in the New Testament of celebrating the day of Christ’s birth. Was Jesus actually born on Christmas? Not likely, Biblical scholars have varying opinions; they say He could have been born in September, October, or March.
The custom of having a Christmas tree goes back a thousand years to a legend about St. Boniface. It is said he came upon a group of pagans worshipping an oak tree. In anger, he chopped it down, and supposedly a young fir tree sprang up in its place. But it was not until five hundred years later that people began to bring fir trees indoors. Martin Luther is said to have started this custom by cutting down a small fir tree and decorating it with lit candles to delight his children on Christmas. It remained a German custom until Queen Victoria married the German Prince Albert and brought the custom to England and then to America. Decorating with evergreens and holly goes back even further. Many ancient cultures, such as the Druids and Romans brought greens indoors during the winter solstice to defy the deadness of winter and to symbolize the hope of returning new life in spring.
I personally love decorating with living plants and fresh greenery. I had a “fake” Christmas tree for some years. I got very tired of it and now I always purchase a fresh evergreen with its loveable imperfections and its wonderful fragrance. If you prefer the convenience of an artificial tree, you can still add living accents to your home for the season. I know that local garden stores have fresh pine roping and wreaths still available. Another wonderful thing to add fragrance and freshness is a rosemary tree. Rosemary is my favorite herb. These are available at this time of year in garden centers and plant departments of large groceries. After Christmas you can cut off sprigs to add to pork, lamb, chicken and beef dishes. Rosemary plants like a cool location in a sunny window, and don’t like to be over or under watered – try once a week. Topiaries of living ivy are also available in wreath and other forms – these are really attractive. I also plant to buy some fresh red roses to put around my home for Christmas – this too looks very festive. I love how one can buy fresh flowers at local groceries very inexpensively. If you purchase fresh roses be sure to prepare them right when you get home. Fill a pot or bowl with water and cut each individual stem underwater before placing it in your container.
Religious intolerance in England actually gave us one of our most loved Christmas songs – The Twelve Days of Christmas.
Supposedly the Catholics in England made up the song to teach their children catechism, when the Church of England between 1558-1829 forbade the open practice of Catholicism. The Partridge in a Pear Tree is supposed to represent Christ. The mother partridge will protect her children by feigning injury to distract predators like Christ sacrificed himself for us. The rest of the symbolism is as follows:
2 Turtle Doves = The Old and New Testaments
3 French Hens = Faith, Hope and Charity, the Theological Virtues
4 Calling Birds = the Four Gospels and/or the Four Evangelists
5 Golden Rings = The first Five Books of the Old Testament, the "Pentateuch", which gives the history of man's fall from grace.
6 Geese A-laying = the six days of creation
7 Swans A-swimming = the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit, the seven sacraments
8 Maids A-milking = the eight Beatitudes
9 Ladies Dancing = the nine Fruits of the Holy Spirit
10 Lords A-leaping = the Ten Commandments
11 Pipers Piping = the eleven faithful Apostles
12 Drummers Drumming = the twelve points of doctrine in the Apostle's Creed
(from the Catholic Information Network – www.cin.org)
Tuesday, December 20, 2005
Thursday, December 08, 2005
Gifts for Gardeners
Are you ready for more gift ideas for the gardener/gardeners in your life? I have more ideas. There are some neat tools that you may not even know about. A “dibber” is a tool that I read about a few years ago. It is not new, just not commonly sold and known. I never bought one until just a few months ago. What is a dibber? It is a tool about a foot long with a sharp point at one end and a crossways handle on the other end. You can use it to make quick holes to the depth of your choice for purposes such as seed planting, setting out young new transplants, and for planting smaller bulbs. I used it this fall for planting about 100 bulbs in a very short time. Poked a hundred holes – dropped in the bulbs – rubbed some dirt over the top to fill in the holes – Voila! I had one hundred Iris reticulata planted in less than thirty minutes. It would fit neatly in a Christmas stocking. I bought mine at www.smith-hawken.com.
Books about gardening are another great idea – there is always more to learn about gardening and a gardening book helps pass the time until one can get one’s hands back in the dirt. For those who desire to learn more about the care and management of perennials I recommend “Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques,”
by Tracy DiSabato-Aust and her companion book - The Well-Designed Mixed Garden: Building Beds and Borders with Trees, Shrubs, Perennials, Annuals, and Bulbs.
“Roses for Dummies” is a good starter book for someone who wants to grow more roses but doesn’t know too much about them yet.
One of my very favorite gardening books I have ever read is “Dirt” by Dianne Benson. Dianne used to have her own clothing store in New York City and then decided to garden and then wrote a book - her book is highly opinionated, personal, very informative and inspirational. Richardson Wright used to be the editor of House and Garden magazine in the 1920’s and 30’s. He was a prolific horticultural writer and published several books – one of which would certainly be a wonderful gift – “The Gardener’s Bed Book” – a collection of 365 amusing and informative little essays about all sorts of things pertaining to gardening. After all these years it is now a beloved classic. www.amazon.com is my favorite place to buy books. Another one I discovered is “Green Thoughts” a collection of gardening essays by Eleanor Pernyi – an author who formerly was editor of Mademoiselle magazine and who used to be married to a Hungarian baron. I am currently not able to put this one down until I finish.
A subscription to a good gardening magazine would also be appreciated. In my opinion the best ones are “Organic Gardening,” “Horticulture,” and “Fine Gardening.”
For a child (or the your inner child – yes, we all have one!) how about a Flower Fairy? Pinetree Garden Seeds (mentioned last week) also carries a very cute selection of Cicely Mary Barker’s Flower fairy gift sets – including a polystone Flower Fairy, a book – “Flower Fairies of the Garden,” and a packet of seeds. They look so cute tucked in somewhere surprising in your garden.
A trip to an antique store also yields gift ideas for the gardener – vintage picturesque zinc watering cans, old flower frogs, vintage pots, charmingly aged framed pictures of flowers, old wrought iron gates and fence sections – all these add “character” to a garden or room.
A garden ornament is also a wonderful gift and here you can give a small or a big gift if you so desire. Statues of St. Francis, the Virgin Mary, various animals, etc. are all popular. I love my St. Francis statue that my mom gave me a few years ago. Surprise your gardener with a new fountain, or a card that says a small pond will be installed – the sky’s the limit!
Books about gardening are another great idea – there is always more to learn about gardening and a gardening book helps pass the time until one can get one’s hands back in the dirt. For those who desire to learn more about the care and management of perennials I recommend “Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques,”
by Tracy DiSabato-Aust and her companion book - The Well-Designed Mixed Garden: Building Beds and Borders with Trees, Shrubs, Perennials, Annuals, and Bulbs.
“Roses for Dummies” is a good starter book for someone who wants to grow more roses but doesn’t know too much about them yet.
One of my very favorite gardening books I have ever read is “Dirt” by Dianne Benson. Dianne used to have her own clothing store in New York City and then decided to garden and then wrote a book - her book is highly opinionated, personal, very informative and inspirational. Richardson Wright used to be the editor of House and Garden magazine in the 1920’s and 30’s. He was a prolific horticultural writer and published several books – one of which would certainly be a wonderful gift – “The Gardener’s Bed Book” – a collection of 365 amusing and informative little essays about all sorts of things pertaining to gardening. After all these years it is now a beloved classic. www.amazon.com is my favorite place to buy books. Another one I discovered is “Green Thoughts” a collection of gardening essays by Eleanor Pernyi – an author who formerly was editor of Mademoiselle magazine and who used to be married to a Hungarian baron. I am currently not able to put this one down until I finish.
A subscription to a good gardening magazine would also be appreciated. In my opinion the best ones are “Organic Gardening,” “Horticulture,” and “Fine Gardening.”
For a child (or the your inner child – yes, we all have one!) how about a Flower Fairy? Pinetree Garden Seeds (mentioned last week) also carries a very cute selection of Cicely Mary Barker’s Flower fairy gift sets – including a polystone Flower Fairy, a book – “Flower Fairies of the Garden,” and a packet of seeds. They look so cute tucked in somewhere surprising in your garden.
A trip to an antique store also yields gift ideas for the gardener – vintage picturesque zinc watering cans, old flower frogs, vintage pots, charmingly aged framed pictures of flowers, old wrought iron gates and fence sections – all these add “character” to a garden or room.
A garden ornament is also a wonderful gift and here you can give a small or a big gift if you so desire. Statues of St. Francis, the Virgin Mary, various animals, etc. are all popular. I love my St. Francis statue that my mom gave me a few years ago. Surprise your gardener with a new fountain, or a card that says a small pond will be installed – the sky’s the limit!
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
The holiday season is rushing along with a frenzy. In the world of gardening, the frenzy is over. The bulbs have been planted (well - most of them!), the annuals are done and forgotten, the perennials are dormant, the vegetables from the garden are a pleasant memory or perhaps preserved in the freezer or glass jars. It is time for gardeners to relax for a while. If you have one or more avid gardeners on your list of people to buy a gift for this year, rest assured the choices are many and there is a very wide price range, from a few dollars into the hundreds.
A present that would be right in the holiday spirit would be a living plant to enjoy such as a live Poinsettia or a Rosemary tree. A fresh evergreen wreath or swag would also be a fragrant and lovely gift, as avid gardeners usually prefer natural decorations.
Does your gardener love roses? If so, there are some great things available. A gift certificate for a quality rose company is a welcome gift. Here is a list of some very reputable rose firms – www.heirloomroses.com, www.ashdownroses.com, www.highcountryroses.com, and www.uncommonrose.com. They all sell own root roses, which are superior to the grafted kind – healthier and longer -lived. Then the lucky recipient can choose one or more new roses from the comfort of his/her home and have them delivered ready to plant at the proper time. There is a much wider variety of roses available this way as opposed to buying only locally. I happily shop both ways. There is a wonderful catalog - www.kinsmangarden.com - that sells all sorts of unique gardening things including lovely and sturdy rose pillars. These are supports for tall and climbing roses – I would personally love one or more of these. They could also support clematis, morning glories and other climbers. (Tip – they also have beautiful small watering cans for $5 that would be a great little present for children). Another good gift for someone who tends roses is a good pair of pruners – the best ones are Felco pruners from Switzerland – available locally and by mail order also from Kinsman. Elbow length leather gloves are also another great gift option for a rosarian. I just bought a pair for myself last year and just love them. I purchased those from a rather "high-falutin" garden catalog – www.smith-hawkin.com - but they do have a wonderful selection of garden gloves. Smith & Hawken also has a retail outlet in Cincinnati on Madison Rd. (513-731-3133) that is really fun to visit.
Excellent stocking stuffers that almost any gardener would appreciate are plant markers – permanent metal markers so one does not forget the names of plants. I wish I had used these more, especially for my roses. A good selection of these are also available from Kinsman.
To encourage organic gardening for someone who always uses chemical fertilizers such as Miracle - Gro, how about a bottle of fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer or bat guano?
Pinetree Garden Seeds (www.superseeds.com) offers The Pinetree Manure Medley – an enriching collection of bat guano, worm castings, and seabird guano in a nice canvas bag with a bar of gardening soap included. A gift only a true gardener would love! My good friend gave me this last year and it was much appreciated. This company also has a big selection of excellent gardening books – many marked down drastically. Pinetree also carries a very cute selection of Cicely Mary Barker’s Flower fairy gift sets – including a polystone Flower Fairy, a book – “Flower Fairies of the Garden,” and a packet of seeds.
A gift certificate to a local gardening center would also be a wonderful gift – I can think of a great one here locally on Greentree Rd. that offers everything from Ash trees to Zinnias. Next week – more gift ideas!
A present that would be right in the holiday spirit would be a living plant to enjoy such as a live Poinsettia or a Rosemary tree. A fresh evergreen wreath or swag would also be a fragrant and lovely gift, as avid gardeners usually prefer natural decorations.
Does your gardener love roses? If so, there are some great things available. A gift certificate for a quality rose company is a welcome gift. Here is a list of some very reputable rose firms – www.heirloomroses.com, www.ashdownroses.com, www.highcountryroses.com, and www.uncommonrose.com. They all sell own root roses, which are superior to the grafted kind – healthier and longer -lived. Then the lucky recipient can choose one or more new roses from the comfort of his/her home and have them delivered ready to plant at the proper time. There is a much wider variety of roses available this way as opposed to buying only locally. I happily shop both ways. There is a wonderful catalog - www.kinsmangarden.com - that sells all sorts of unique gardening things including lovely and sturdy rose pillars. These are supports for tall and climbing roses – I would personally love one or more of these. They could also support clematis, morning glories and other climbers. (Tip – they also have beautiful small watering cans for $5 that would be a great little present for children). Another good gift for someone who tends roses is a good pair of pruners – the best ones are Felco pruners from Switzerland – available locally and by mail order also from Kinsman. Elbow length leather gloves are also another great gift option for a rosarian. I just bought a pair for myself last year and just love them. I purchased those from a rather "high-falutin" garden catalog – www.smith-hawkin.com - but they do have a wonderful selection of garden gloves. Smith & Hawken also has a retail outlet in Cincinnati on Madison Rd. (513-731-3133) that is really fun to visit.
Excellent stocking stuffers that almost any gardener would appreciate are plant markers – permanent metal markers so one does not forget the names of plants. I wish I had used these more, especially for my roses. A good selection of these are also available from Kinsman.
To encourage organic gardening for someone who always uses chemical fertilizers such as Miracle - Gro, how about a bottle of fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer or bat guano?
Pinetree Garden Seeds (www.superseeds.com) offers The Pinetree Manure Medley – an enriching collection of bat guano, worm castings, and seabird guano in a nice canvas bag with a bar of gardening soap included. A gift only a true gardener would love! My good friend gave me this last year and it was much appreciated. This company also has a big selection of excellent gardening books – many marked down drastically. Pinetree also carries a very cute selection of Cicely Mary Barker’s Flower fairy gift sets – including a polystone Flower Fairy, a book – “Flower Fairies of the Garden,” and a packet of seeds.
A gift certificate to a local gardening center would also be a wonderful gift – I can think of a great one here locally on Greentree Rd. that offers everything from Ash trees to Zinnias. Next week – more gift ideas!
Thursday, November 24, 2005
Amaryllis, etc.
Last week I talked about Paperwhites. This week – Amaryllis! I remember the first time I grew an Amaryllis. I was nineteen, in my own home for the first time. I potted up the bulb and anxiously watched it grow for weeks. Finally large buds appeared and began to open, revealing huge gorgeous flowers. The day after the flower buds finally opened, a two-year-old little girl visited me. She was looking with wonder and curiosity at my “big flower” and then suddenly without warning, she reached out and just snapped off the flowers.
I nearly cried. Since then, I have had Amaryllis some years and some not. This year I will again. They are so easy to grow that anyone can grow them, and they are so welcome in the dark days of winter with their long lasting huge colorful flowers.
Where can one purchase Amaryllis? Some stores such as Target carry them prepotted, home centers like Lowe’s carry them, and certainly can be found in all good garden centers – usually the loose bulbs. The bulbs are quite large – about three to four inches in diameter. They are also widely available from bulb companies such as Van Engelen or Dutch Gardens (www.dutchgardens.com) or Van Engelen (www.vanengelen.com). I prefer to buy the loose bulbs, as I have plenty of pots around and also always have some potting soil on hand. Any good quality potting mix will do. The pot should be about six inches in diameter – no larger, as the bulb likes to be somewhat crowded – and also fairly heavy, such as a clay or ceramic pot. It also must have drainage holes. A light plastic pot might be too light, as the Amaryllis gets to be about twenty inches tall with several large heavy blooms. Put the bulb in the soil nearly up to its neck, leaving one quarter of the bulb peeping out of the soil. Water with room temperature water initially, and then do not water more often than once a week. A southern window is ideal for an Amaryllis. From potting to bloom should take six to twelve weeks. If you pot one up now, you should be enjoying gorgeous blooms sometime in January, just when you need a little pick me up. As the flowers fade, cut off the individual flowers with a sharp scissors.
After the extended bloom period – what then? If you don’t mind purchasing new bulbs yearly, you may toss it on the compost heap or just somewhere out in a garden bed to decompose. Or, with a bit of care and feeding, one can bring it to bloom again next year.
After the flowers are completely spent and faded, leave the flowering stalk to die back in a natural fashion. Leave the leaves in place and treat it as a houseplant for the rest of the winter. After the last frost date (May 15 here), sink the pot in your garden somewhere partially sunny (at least four hours) to grow its leaves and build energy for its next bloom cycle. Fertilize monthly with fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer. In mid September, dig up the pot and bring it inside. Put it in a cool place for the next eight to ten weeks. I put mine next to an outer door that is infrequently used. It must be cool and dark, about 55 degrees. Withhold water during this time. After the eight to ten-week wait, bring the potted bulb back in to a warm light area, and begin watering again to begin the cycle all over again.
Try an Amaryllis this winter – you will be glad you did!
I nearly cried. Since then, I have had Amaryllis some years and some not. This year I will again. They are so easy to grow that anyone can grow them, and they are so welcome in the dark days of winter with their long lasting huge colorful flowers.
Where can one purchase Amaryllis? Some stores such as Target carry them prepotted, home centers like Lowe’s carry them, and certainly can be found in all good garden centers – usually the loose bulbs. The bulbs are quite large – about three to four inches in diameter. They are also widely available from bulb companies such as Van Engelen or Dutch Gardens (www.dutchgardens.com) or Van Engelen (www.vanengelen.com). I prefer to buy the loose bulbs, as I have plenty of pots around and also always have some potting soil on hand. Any good quality potting mix will do. The pot should be about six inches in diameter – no larger, as the bulb likes to be somewhat crowded – and also fairly heavy, such as a clay or ceramic pot. It also must have drainage holes. A light plastic pot might be too light, as the Amaryllis gets to be about twenty inches tall with several large heavy blooms. Put the bulb in the soil nearly up to its neck, leaving one quarter of the bulb peeping out of the soil. Water with room temperature water initially, and then do not water more often than once a week. A southern window is ideal for an Amaryllis. From potting to bloom should take six to twelve weeks. If you pot one up now, you should be enjoying gorgeous blooms sometime in January, just when you need a little pick me up. As the flowers fade, cut off the individual flowers with a sharp scissors.
After the extended bloom period – what then? If you don’t mind purchasing new bulbs yearly, you may toss it on the compost heap or just somewhere out in a garden bed to decompose. Or, with a bit of care and feeding, one can bring it to bloom again next year.
After the flowers are completely spent and faded, leave the flowering stalk to die back in a natural fashion. Leave the leaves in place and treat it as a houseplant for the rest of the winter. After the last frost date (May 15 here), sink the pot in your garden somewhere partially sunny (at least four hours) to grow its leaves and build energy for its next bloom cycle. Fertilize monthly with fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer. In mid September, dig up the pot and bring it inside. Put it in a cool place for the next eight to ten weeks. I put mine next to an outer door that is infrequently used. It must be cool and dark, about 55 degrees. Withhold water during this time. After the eight to ten-week wait, bring the potted bulb back in to a warm light area, and begin watering again to begin the cycle all over again.
Try an Amaryllis this winter – you will be glad you did!
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Fall Chores and Paperwhites
November is halfway over and with Thanksgiving around the corner – December will be here before we know it. Have you finished up all the chores in your garden?
I know I said that I usually leave all my perennials and annuals in place, but I do make a few exceptions. I always cut off my peony foliage (if I hadn’t done so earlier) because they sometimes have botrytis blight. If you have chrysanthemums – cut those off to three or four inches after a hard frost.
The big thing now is also what to do with all those leaves. I have noticed people raking them out to the street like in the past. The city of Middletown does not pick up leaves at curbside any longer. If you wish you can bag them and put them out for the trash – but STOP! Why waste such a valuable resource? In nature nothing goes to waste – dead leaves, dead plants, and dead trees even are all recycled back into the soil to provide nutrients for the next generations of plants. Many people now take their cue from nature and recycle all those leaves back into extremely beneficial soil conditioner/fertilizer. If you don’t have too many leaves, just mow over them and leave them on your lawn. Over winter they will decompose and benefit your grass. For lots of leaves, you may also either run over them with a lawnmower (here a mulching mower with a bag comes in handy) or shred them with a shredder. Then move all the shredded leaves to your garden beds with the help of a rake. The shredded leaves will readily break down over winter. If you do this for two or three years you will notice your soil has really improved. Our clay soil here needs all the organic material you can add to it. Keep adding your kitchen scraps to the soil too – I merely sprinkle them over my beds in different places – potato peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, etc. If you have a heavy layer of mulch, stir them into the mulch with a trowel. I have been doing this for years and have noticed my soil get richer and easier to dig in every year.
Gather up all the garden tools lying around (OK, maybe you are organized and don’t have them lying around like I do). However, this is a good time to clean them and store them. Remove heavy rust with Naval Jelly and then coat with mineral oil. For a good way to store garden tools, fill a bucket with sand, add some mineral oil and mix well. Stick your tools down in here for the winter. Get rid of worn out tools or tools you didn’t use and take advantage of winter sales to get new ones or – ask for new ones for Christmas!
Don’t forget to bring in your hose for the winter. This is something I have forgotten in the past until the snow melts.
And now for something completely different…
Every year I read articles about forcing bulbs. I have tried it in the past without much success. It seems like an awful lot of trouble for a little bit of color. There are bulbs to force that are so easy a child can do it. I am talking about Paperwhites and Amaryllis bulbs. They need no chilling – just plant and water. Specifically – Paperwhites are in the Narcissus family, originally from the Mediterranean area. They have creamy white blooms that are extremely fragrant. You need a container that is at least four inches or more deep with no drain holes. You can use soil, but you certainly don’t need to, as gravel or small stones will do nicely. Put an inch or two of your planting medium in the bottom of the container, place your bulbs in, and then add more planting medium (soil, pebbles, gravel) up to the neck or top of the bulbs – leave a little bulb peeking out. Then add some water – not too much – the bulbs should not be sitting in water. Keep adding some water regularly and in 4 to 6 weeks they will bloom. Until then, it is fun to watch them grow. You may start some every few weeks all winter for continual bloom. Now is a good time to start a batch for Christmas to have bloom and fragrance in your house. After they show green growth move to a cool sunny window. You may pot some up in pretty ceramic containers and give them as gifts for Christmas along with instructions for care. Paperwhites can be purchased locally in garden shops or ordered from bulb companies.
Next week I will talk about the care and culture of Amaryllis bulbs.
I know I said that I usually leave all my perennials and annuals in place, but I do make a few exceptions. I always cut off my peony foliage (if I hadn’t done so earlier) because they sometimes have botrytis blight. If you have chrysanthemums – cut those off to three or four inches after a hard frost.
The big thing now is also what to do with all those leaves. I have noticed people raking them out to the street like in the past. The city of Middletown does not pick up leaves at curbside any longer. If you wish you can bag them and put them out for the trash – but STOP! Why waste such a valuable resource? In nature nothing goes to waste – dead leaves, dead plants, and dead trees even are all recycled back into the soil to provide nutrients for the next generations of plants. Many people now take their cue from nature and recycle all those leaves back into extremely beneficial soil conditioner/fertilizer. If you don’t have too many leaves, just mow over them and leave them on your lawn. Over winter they will decompose and benefit your grass. For lots of leaves, you may also either run over them with a lawnmower (here a mulching mower with a bag comes in handy) or shred them with a shredder. Then move all the shredded leaves to your garden beds with the help of a rake. The shredded leaves will readily break down over winter. If you do this for two or three years you will notice your soil has really improved. Our clay soil here needs all the organic material you can add to it. Keep adding your kitchen scraps to the soil too – I merely sprinkle them over my beds in different places – potato peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, etc. If you have a heavy layer of mulch, stir them into the mulch with a trowel. I have been doing this for years and have noticed my soil get richer and easier to dig in every year.
Gather up all the garden tools lying around (OK, maybe you are organized and don’t have them lying around like I do). However, this is a good time to clean them and store them. Remove heavy rust with Naval Jelly and then coat with mineral oil. For a good way to store garden tools, fill a bucket with sand, add some mineral oil and mix well. Stick your tools down in here for the winter. Get rid of worn out tools or tools you didn’t use and take advantage of winter sales to get new ones or – ask for new ones for Christmas!
Don’t forget to bring in your hose for the winter. This is something I have forgotten in the past until the snow melts.
And now for something completely different…
Every year I read articles about forcing bulbs. I have tried it in the past without much success. It seems like an awful lot of trouble for a little bit of color. There are bulbs to force that are so easy a child can do it. I am talking about Paperwhites and Amaryllis bulbs. They need no chilling – just plant and water. Specifically – Paperwhites are in the Narcissus family, originally from the Mediterranean area. They have creamy white blooms that are extremely fragrant. You need a container that is at least four inches or more deep with no drain holes. You can use soil, but you certainly don’t need to, as gravel or small stones will do nicely. Put an inch or two of your planting medium in the bottom of the container, place your bulbs in, and then add more planting medium (soil, pebbles, gravel) up to the neck or top of the bulbs – leave a little bulb peeking out. Then add some water – not too much – the bulbs should not be sitting in water. Keep adding some water regularly and in 4 to 6 weeks they will bloom. Until then, it is fun to watch them grow. You may start some every few weeks all winter for continual bloom. Now is a good time to start a batch for Christmas to have bloom and fragrance in your house. After they show green growth move to a cool sunny window. You may pot some up in pretty ceramic containers and give them as gifts for Christmas along with instructions for care. Paperwhites can be purchased locally in garden shops or ordered from bulb companies.
Next week I will talk about the care and culture of Amaryllis bulbs.
Tuesday, November 15, 2005
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Rose Hips
If you have roses, you have probably noticed that they produce rose hips in the fall, or anytime after the rose blooms and fades and is not cut off. Rose hips are the “fruit” of the rose. Roses are very closely botanically related to apples, so one can think of rose hips as tiny “rose apples.” If you garden organically, that is, if you did not spray your roses with any fungicides, pesticides, or any other “–cides,” you can harvest your “crop” of rose hips and make good things from them.
Rose hips are very high in nutrients, especially Vitamin C. They also contain iron, Vitamin A, bioflavanoids, pectin, Vitamin E, selenium, manganese, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, and silicon. You can simply pick them and eat them raw, if you like. They are hard and a bit bitter, a little like crabapples. One can also pick them and use them in recipes and to make tea. They are ripe when brightly colored, usually orange or red.
If you don’t have roses in your yard, you may be able to find them out in the meadows or woods where wild roses grow. The rose hips may be used fresh or dried. To dry rose hips, examine them and discard any with discoloration. Wash them in cold water, dry with paper towels, and place them on a wax paper lined cookie sheet. When they are partially dried, probably in a week or so, cut them in half and remove the seeds. A week or so later they will look wrinkly and darker and be ready to store in a glass jar in the refrigerator or freezer. Be sure to rub or cut off any stems or blossom ends. You may snack on these any time you want some energy, or use them in recipes. Anytime you use rose hips, it is recommended that you remove the seeds - whether fresh or dried. They are not poisonous, but may be irritating to some people's digestive systems.
The easiest way to use rose hips is for delicious and nutritious rose hip tea. For tea, hips may be used fresh or dried. Most of the nutrition of the rose hip is contained in the skin and just under the skin.
To make tea from fresh rose hips, steep two tablespoons of fresh cleaned hips in a cup of boiling water for ten minutes. To use dried hips, use two teaspoons of hips and simmer for ten to fifteen minutes in a cup of boiling water. Sweeten to taste with honey and enjoy your vitamin rich and fragrant tea!
If you have a lot of rose hips, you can make rose hip syrup. Wash the rose hips and put them in a non-reactive pot. (not aluminum) Just cover them with water and bring them to a boil. Then lower your heat and simmer for fifteen minutes. Strain off the resulting liquid, pressing the hips lightly with a spoon. The liquid can now be used immediately or frozen for later use. To make the syrup, add one part honey to two parts of the rose hip liquid. Dissolve the honey by stirring. The syrup can be stored for up to two weeks and may be served on pancakes, waffles, or vanilla ice cream. Tastes best if warmed.
In Sweden, they use lots of rose hips and consume them by the tons every year. They probably learned to use rose hips to have Vitamin C in the cold long winter they have in that northern country. One of their favorite recipes is Rose Hip Soup.
To make four servings of soup use the following:
3 cups of rose hip liquid (as above) fresh or frozen
2 Tablespoons honey
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Teaspoons cornstarch
In a saucepan, heat rose hip liquid and add honey and lemon juice. Remove ½ cup of the mixture and whisk cornstarch into this until smooth. Return thickened cornstarch mixture into the pan. Cook and stir until mixture bubbles and thickens. It is now ready to serve. Add a spoonful of sour cream or plain yogurt to each bowlful with a sprig of mint, if desired.
Some adventurous people even make rose hip wine.
If you are one of these people I would be glad to come and sample some of your product!
Rose hips are very high in nutrients, especially Vitamin C. They also contain iron, Vitamin A, bioflavanoids, pectin, Vitamin E, selenium, manganese, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, and silicon. You can simply pick them and eat them raw, if you like. They are hard and a bit bitter, a little like crabapples. One can also pick them and use them in recipes and to make tea. They are ripe when brightly colored, usually orange or red.
If you don’t have roses in your yard, you may be able to find them out in the meadows or woods where wild roses grow. The rose hips may be used fresh or dried. To dry rose hips, examine them and discard any with discoloration. Wash them in cold water, dry with paper towels, and place them on a wax paper lined cookie sheet. When they are partially dried, probably in a week or so, cut them in half and remove the seeds. A week or so later they will look wrinkly and darker and be ready to store in a glass jar in the refrigerator or freezer. Be sure to rub or cut off any stems or blossom ends. You may snack on these any time you want some energy, or use them in recipes. Anytime you use rose hips, it is recommended that you remove the seeds - whether fresh or dried. They are not poisonous, but may be irritating to some people's digestive systems.
The easiest way to use rose hips is for delicious and nutritious rose hip tea. For tea, hips may be used fresh or dried. Most of the nutrition of the rose hip is contained in the skin and just under the skin.
To make tea from fresh rose hips, steep two tablespoons of fresh cleaned hips in a cup of boiling water for ten minutes. To use dried hips, use two teaspoons of hips and simmer for ten to fifteen minutes in a cup of boiling water. Sweeten to taste with honey and enjoy your vitamin rich and fragrant tea!
If you have a lot of rose hips, you can make rose hip syrup. Wash the rose hips and put them in a non-reactive pot. (not aluminum) Just cover them with water and bring them to a boil. Then lower your heat and simmer for fifteen minutes. Strain off the resulting liquid, pressing the hips lightly with a spoon. The liquid can now be used immediately or frozen for later use. To make the syrup, add one part honey to two parts of the rose hip liquid. Dissolve the honey by stirring. The syrup can be stored for up to two weeks and may be served on pancakes, waffles, or vanilla ice cream. Tastes best if warmed.
In Sweden, they use lots of rose hips and consume them by the tons every year. They probably learned to use rose hips to have Vitamin C in the cold long winter they have in that northern country. One of their favorite recipes is Rose Hip Soup.
To make four servings of soup use the following:
3 cups of rose hip liquid (as above) fresh or frozen
2 Tablespoons honey
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Teaspoons cornstarch
In a saucepan, heat rose hip liquid and add honey and lemon juice. Remove ½ cup of the mixture and whisk cornstarch into this until smooth. Return thickened cornstarch mixture into the pan. Cook and stir until mixture bubbles and thickens. It is now ready to serve. Add a spoonful of sour cream or plain yogurt to each bowlful with a sprig of mint, if desired.
Some adventurous people even make rose hip wine.
If you are one of these people I would be glad to come and sample some of your product!
Thursday, October 27, 2005
Plant Bulbs Now!!!
Now is the perfect time to plant spring blooming bulbs. One can begin now and continue to plant bulbs until the ground is frozen. It is better, though, to finish planting daffodils by the end of October. There may be bulbs marked down at local garden stores and home centers soon, so take advantage and plant for spring color. There are nothing like spring blooming bulbs – such color and variety!
Let me provide an example of how to plant combinations of bulbs. A couple of days ago I planted spring blooming bulbs in my Bright Spot for blooms in April and also early May. I dug five holes about twenty inches or so across and about eight inches deep. In each hole I placed five fat daffodil bulbs – “Ipi Tombi,” a tall daff with a bright orange cup and yellow corona. The “points” on the bulbs should face upward. In between the daffodil bulbs and in the middle I placed seven to eight plump and shiny tulip bulbs - “Carnavel de Nice,” a double tulip with deep red and white petals. Tulip bulbs are flat on one side and rounded on the other. The rounded part goes toward the middle of the hole, as I heard someone say once – “Pregnant ladies face the table!” – now you won’t forget that. After placing the tulip and daffodil bulbs I covered them with about an inch of soil. On top of this soil I evenly arranged about ten to twelve sturdy smaller bulbs of Muscari – blue grape hyacinths. This is called “underplanting.” Grape hyacinths can be used as “markers” to remember where you have planted bulbs, as they usually soon send out fresh green foliage after planting, and also every fall after that. When my Bright Spot blooms in spring, the yellow and orange daffodils will bloom in April, and then after they are finished, the red and white tulips should come up along with the blue Muscari, providing a bright red, white, and blue color combination.
Use this layering technique to do underplantings of smaller bulbs or timed bloomings of larger bulbs using colors and bloom times for different effects. As an alternative to using Muscari, for example, plant a bunch of crocus bulbs or Scilla siberica or Galanthus nivalis (these all bloom in March) to be followed by later bloomers.
After the bulbs finish blooming – annuals can be planted in between the ripening bulb foliage. As an alternative, if you would rather have perennials take over after the bulbs bloom, it is possible to do all of the planting at the same time you plant bulbs – this is good if you are starting new beds or planting schemes. After you plant the bulbs in your big hole, place a hosta (in shady beds) on top or to the side of the partially filled hole, or a daylily for sunnier spots. Hostas and daylilies are marked down now at local garden stores, and can be safely planted until hard frosts. The daylilies and hostas will emerge slowly as the bulbs are finishing up in late spring and then their foliage will help conceal the messiness of the bulb foliage as the bulbs’ leaves continue to absorb energy for the bulbs for six weeks in very early summers.
If you already have perennials in place (as many people do), dig holes in between them. If your space is really tight, use a bulb drill bit attached to a power drill to make holes or use the “bulb planters” widely sold, or just make smaller holes with a good sturdy trowel for individual bulbs. I planted nine “Globemaster” allium bulbs in my own garden amongst Shasta daisies, roses, and other perennials. The allium bulbs are quite large and I spaced them about a foot to a foot and a half apart in between existing plants in a roughly oval pattern. I can’t wait to see these nine big purple globes next May coming up three feet tall in my front garden bed. Lately I have really become enamoured of the color purple.
In my shady beds I have all sorts of hostas, ferns, toad lilies, and other plants so I am planting individual small holes carefully in between existing plants. Here I will plant the smaller holes with a few of the “minor" bulbs in each hole, such as five Fritillaria meleagris, or five crocuses, or five Galanthus. As you can see, bulbs do not need their own beds, but can be worked into the plan you already have in place. Also keep in mind that bulbs look more attractive when planted in groups of three, five, seven or more. And please don’t line them up in straight rows – this looks artificial and contrived. Follow the way of nature and plant “clumps,” – much more appealing!
Let me provide an example of how to plant combinations of bulbs. A couple of days ago I planted spring blooming bulbs in my Bright Spot for blooms in April and also early May. I dug five holes about twenty inches or so across and about eight inches deep. In each hole I placed five fat daffodil bulbs – “Ipi Tombi,” a tall daff with a bright orange cup and yellow corona. The “points” on the bulbs should face upward. In between the daffodil bulbs and in the middle I placed seven to eight plump and shiny tulip bulbs - “Carnavel de Nice,” a double tulip with deep red and white petals. Tulip bulbs are flat on one side and rounded on the other. The rounded part goes toward the middle of the hole, as I heard someone say once – “Pregnant ladies face the table!” – now you won’t forget that. After placing the tulip and daffodil bulbs I covered them with about an inch of soil. On top of this soil I evenly arranged about ten to twelve sturdy smaller bulbs of Muscari – blue grape hyacinths. This is called “underplanting.” Grape hyacinths can be used as “markers” to remember where you have planted bulbs, as they usually soon send out fresh green foliage after planting, and also every fall after that. When my Bright Spot blooms in spring, the yellow and orange daffodils will bloom in April, and then after they are finished, the red and white tulips should come up along with the blue Muscari, providing a bright red, white, and blue color combination.
Use this layering technique to do underplantings of smaller bulbs or timed bloomings of larger bulbs using colors and bloom times for different effects. As an alternative to using Muscari, for example, plant a bunch of crocus bulbs or Scilla siberica or Galanthus nivalis (these all bloom in March) to be followed by later bloomers.
After the bulbs finish blooming – annuals can be planted in between the ripening bulb foliage. As an alternative, if you would rather have perennials take over after the bulbs bloom, it is possible to do all of the planting at the same time you plant bulbs – this is good if you are starting new beds or planting schemes. After you plant the bulbs in your big hole, place a hosta (in shady beds) on top or to the side of the partially filled hole, or a daylily for sunnier spots. Hostas and daylilies are marked down now at local garden stores, and can be safely planted until hard frosts. The daylilies and hostas will emerge slowly as the bulbs are finishing up in late spring and then their foliage will help conceal the messiness of the bulb foliage as the bulbs’ leaves continue to absorb energy for the bulbs for six weeks in very early summers.
If you already have perennials in place (as many people do), dig holes in between them. If your space is really tight, use a bulb drill bit attached to a power drill to make holes or use the “bulb planters” widely sold, or just make smaller holes with a good sturdy trowel for individual bulbs. I planted nine “Globemaster” allium bulbs in my own garden amongst Shasta daisies, roses, and other perennials. The allium bulbs are quite large and I spaced them about a foot to a foot and a half apart in between existing plants in a roughly oval pattern. I can’t wait to see these nine big purple globes next May coming up three feet tall in my front garden bed. Lately I have really become enamoured of the color purple.
In my shady beds I have all sorts of hostas, ferns, toad lilies, and other plants so I am planting individual small holes carefully in between existing plants. Here I will plant the smaller holes with a few of the “minor" bulbs in each hole, such as five Fritillaria meleagris, or five crocuses, or five Galanthus. As you can see, bulbs do not need their own beds, but can be worked into the plan you already have in place. Also keep in mind that bulbs look more attractive when planted in groups of three, five, seven or more. And please don’t line them up in straight rows – this looks artificial and contrived. Follow the way of nature and plant “clumps,” – much more appealing!
Monday, October 24, 2005
Japanese Anemone
The sparkling white blooms of the Japanese Anemone are a welcome
addition to the fall garden.
Toad Lily - Tricyrtis
Perhaps they named the Toad Lily so because of the speckled blooms, but
I think it is an ugly name for such a beautiful plant.
Blooming in fall, it is a unique alternative or addition to ordinary
"mums."
Thursday, October 13, 2005
Seed saving and other tidbits
Have you ever thought of saving seeds from some of your favorite plants? Of course, seeds are not too expensive and of course you can buy them every year – but there are several advantages to saving your own seeds from your own plants. First of all I would like to point out that only “heirloom” plants will produce seed that will grow into another plant like the parent. You can also save and plant seeds from “hybrid” plants – plants that have two different parents, but they will not produce the same plant – they will be a surprise – maybe good, maybe not. If you have the time and space, this can be fun to do. I do not have a lot of time or a lot of space so I only save heirloom type of seeds from plants in my own garden. A plant that has grown and done very well in your yard is a good choice to save seeds from. Saving seeds from veggies or fruit is generally a matter of waiting until a fruit or vegetable is very ripe – taking out the seeds, rinsing and drying them, and then saving them in labeled envelopes in a sealed jar to keep them very dry until next spring. Tomato plants’ seeds are just a little trickier to save but not difficult.
This year I had a “Mr. Stripey,” a “Pruden’s Purple,” and a “Godlove” tomato plant that all did exceptionally well. I am still picking tomatoes now for salads. I want to save seeds from these three plants that did so well for us this year. Here is how to do it and you can do it too. Take a very ripe healthy looking tomato of the variety you are choosing to save the seeds of. Cut it in half crosswise. Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds along with the sort of pulpy stuff in the “compartments” of the tomato. Put this into a clear glass cup or jar. Add a little water to make it soupy looking. Cover with a paper towel and use a rubber band to secure it across the top of the jar or cup. Now wait 2 to 4 days until you see a layer of mold cover the top of the pulp and water. It will have a “yucky” smell because it is actually fermenting. Take a fork or spoon and scoop off the mold and discard it. You will see the seeds at the bottom of the watery stuff left. Dump this all into a mesh strainer and rinse well, rubbing off the pulp with your fingers gently. Then put the washed seeds on a plate to dry. This will take several days to a week. Make sure you wait until they are absolutely dry or they might get moldy in storage. After drying them, put them in an envelope, label them, and keep the envelopes stored in a very dry place such as a glass jar with a lid. You will need to do this separately for each variety of tomato you want to save seeds from.
This is a good week to make sure to bring in all your houseplants that have summered outdoors if you have not done it already. Hose them off very well, let them drip dry and bring them into your sunniest location if they are sunlovers. If you are bringing in geraniums, scented or flowering – trim them back by a third or so. Flowering geraniums can be trimmed back by half and hung upside down from nails in the basement or in a dark closet and they will “hibernate” for the winter. I had heard about this old-time method and finally tried it a couple of years ago and it works very well. Just plant them in spring and they will start growing again. Tropical plants such as gardenias and passionflowers all need to wintered over in the house as well. If you have one or more tropical plants you purchased to enjoy this summer that you don’t have room for indoors, offer it to a friend or offer it on a local www.freecycle.org email list. Freecycle is a good way to share things you no longer want or need – check it out – www.freecycle.org.
I have also taken starts of all the coleus plants I particularly liked and rooted them in water and will be potting them up this week to winter over. That way I won’t have to buy new plants next year and I will already have the varieties I prefer and not have to search for them again – saving both time and money. Simply pinch or cut off a stem about six to eight inches long with leaves and put in water. A week or two later it will have grown a good root system and can be planted in a pot and kept as a houseplant until spring. If it gets too big, pinch it back as needed. I love coleus plants as they come in so many color combinations, are so easy to grow and really brighten shady areas.
Next week – bulb strategies.
This year I had a “Mr. Stripey,” a “Pruden’s Purple,” and a “Godlove” tomato plant that all did exceptionally well. I am still picking tomatoes now for salads. I want to save seeds from these three plants that did so well for us this year. Here is how to do it and you can do it too. Take a very ripe healthy looking tomato of the variety you are choosing to save the seeds of. Cut it in half crosswise. Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds along with the sort of pulpy stuff in the “compartments” of the tomato. Put this into a clear glass cup or jar. Add a little water to make it soupy looking. Cover with a paper towel and use a rubber band to secure it across the top of the jar or cup. Now wait 2 to 4 days until you see a layer of mold cover the top of the pulp and water. It will have a “yucky” smell because it is actually fermenting. Take a fork or spoon and scoop off the mold and discard it. You will see the seeds at the bottom of the watery stuff left. Dump this all into a mesh strainer and rinse well, rubbing off the pulp with your fingers gently. Then put the washed seeds on a plate to dry. This will take several days to a week. Make sure you wait until they are absolutely dry or they might get moldy in storage. After drying them, put them in an envelope, label them, and keep the envelopes stored in a very dry place such as a glass jar with a lid. You will need to do this separately for each variety of tomato you want to save seeds from.
This is a good week to make sure to bring in all your houseplants that have summered outdoors if you have not done it already. Hose them off very well, let them drip dry and bring them into your sunniest location if they are sunlovers. If you are bringing in geraniums, scented or flowering – trim them back by a third or so. Flowering geraniums can be trimmed back by half and hung upside down from nails in the basement or in a dark closet and they will “hibernate” for the winter. I had heard about this old-time method and finally tried it a couple of years ago and it works very well. Just plant them in spring and they will start growing again. Tropical plants such as gardenias and passionflowers all need to wintered over in the house as well. If you have one or more tropical plants you purchased to enjoy this summer that you don’t have room for indoors, offer it to a friend or offer it on a local www.freecycle.org email list. Freecycle is a good way to share things you no longer want or need – check it out – www.freecycle.org.
I have also taken starts of all the coleus plants I particularly liked and rooted them in water and will be potting them up this week to winter over. That way I won’t have to buy new plants next year and I will already have the varieties I prefer and not have to search for them again – saving both time and money. Simply pinch or cut off a stem about six to eight inches long with leaves and put in water. A week or two later it will have grown a good root system and can be planted in a pot and kept as a houseplant until spring. If it gets too big, pinch it back as needed. I love coleus plants as they come in so many color combinations, are so easy to grow and really brighten shady areas.
Next week – bulb strategies.
Tuesday, October 04, 2005
Fall Musings
No spring, nor summer beauty hath such grace
As I have seen in one autumnal face;
—John Donne (1572–1631) "Elegy IX: The Autumnal"
I went to the Middfest on Sunday and as usual for the past twenty-five years, was not disappointed. There were a wealth of things to learn and to enjoy. I thoroughly enjoyed the native plant display that provided valuable information to encourage the use of native plants and to discourage the use of invasive non-native plants. I had not been to the Plaza in a long while and was delighted with the plantings in the long walkway that passes the Manchester Hotel and the AIM building on the way to the City Building. The beds overflowed and billowed with naturalistically designed mass plantings of tall red salvia and a shorter yellow blooming plant – Melampodium. Both plants are drought tolerant, long blooming, and easy to grow. I would like to know the name of the red salvia – I am sure it attracts hummingbirds. The water features had tall white salvia and “Alaska” nasturtiums. Whoever is responsible for these plantings, I would like to say to them – “Well Done!”
I was busy this week in my garden. I have neglected it lately because of the heat and other activities. There was an enormous rosebush, a “Constance Spry,” that became infected with a virus that causes abnormal canes. It had also simply become too large for my modest yard. For several months now I have been meaning to take it out. On one of the cooler days we had last week, I finally got the heavy duty pruners, the elbow length leather rose gloves and set to work. Two hours and three large trash cans full of thorny rose canes later I was near done. The big roots remained, but I think I will let my husband Ron tackle those this weekend while I am at work. Removing this behemoth of a rose opened up a new planting area for me and I am delighted to have room to add more plants. One of the first plants I added was a Willow Leaf Sunflower given to me by my gardening friend Teresa. On a recent visit to her garden she had a Monkshood in full bloom. This is a shade perennial that blooms in early fall in a beautiful shade of blue. The plant is poisonous but then, many plants are as well, including Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Castor Oil Plant and even daffodils. I will write a future column on these common plants that many are unaware are poisonous. Toad lilies (Tricyrtis) are now in full bloom in my garden and others’ gardens along with the gorgeous Japanese Anemone – “Honorine Jobert.” I think these two are among the most beautiful of all perennials - in fall and other wise.
Last week I finally placed my large bulb order and am eagerly awaiting the plump bulbs to plant in my garden and also in my Bright Spot for all to enjoy. I will be sharing more bulb planting tips next week as the time to do this draws near. Planting can certainly start in the next couple of weeks and can continue until November as long as the ground is not frozen.
All the Bright Spots in town have certainly looked good this summer and I know how difficult it was to keep them watered during the dry summer we have had. Kudos to Denise Hall for organizing this wonderful program that helps keep our city more attractive.
Gold of a ripe oat straw, gold of a southwest moon,
Canada thistle blue and flimmering larkspur blue,
Tomatoes shining in the October sun with red hearts,
—Carl Sandburg (1878–1967) "Cornhuskers," Falltime (1918)
As I have seen in one autumnal face;
—John Donne (1572–1631) "Elegy IX: The Autumnal"
I went to the Middfest on Sunday and as usual for the past twenty-five years, was not disappointed. There were a wealth of things to learn and to enjoy. I thoroughly enjoyed the native plant display that provided valuable information to encourage the use of native plants and to discourage the use of invasive non-native plants. I had not been to the Plaza in a long while and was delighted with the plantings in the long walkway that passes the Manchester Hotel and the AIM building on the way to the City Building. The beds overflowed and billowed with naturalistically designed mass plantings of tall red salvia and a shorter yellow blooming plant – Melampodium. Both plants are drought tolerant, long blooming, and easy to grow. I would like to know the name of the red salvia – I am sure it attracts hummingbirds. The water features had tall white salvia and “Alaska” nasturtiums. Whoever is responsible for these plantings, I would like to say to them – “Well Done!”
I was busy this week in my garden. I have neglected it lately because of the heat and other activities. There was an enormous rosebush, a “Constance Spry,” that became infected with a virus that causes abnormal canes. It had also simply become too large for my modest yard. For several months now I have been meaning to take it out. On one of the cooler days we had last week, I finally got the heavy duty pruners, the elbow length leather rose gloves and set to work. Two hours and three large trash cans full of thorny rose canes later I was near done. The big roots remained, but I think I will let my husband Ron tackle those this weekend while I am at work. Removing this behemoth of a rose opened up a new planting area for me and I am delighted to have room to add more plants. One of the first plants I added was a Willow Leaf Sunflower given to me by my gardening friend Teresa. On a recent visit to her garden she had a Monkshood in full bloom. This is a shade perennial that blooms in early fall in a beautiful shade of blue. The plant is poisonous but then, many plants are as well, including Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Castor Oil Plant and even daffodils. I will write a future column on these common plants that many are unaware are poisonous. Toad lilies (Tricyrtis) are now in full bloom in my garden and others’ gardens along with the gorgeous Japanese Anemone – “Honorine Jobert.” I think these two are among the most beautiful of all perennials - in fall and other wise.
Last week I finally placed my large bulb order and am eagerly awaiting the plump bulbs to plant in my garden and also in my Bright Spot for all to enjoy. I will be sharing more bulb planting tips next week as the time to do this draws near. Planting can certainly start in the next couple of weeks and can continue until November as long as the ground is not frozen.
All the Bright Spots in town have certainly looked good this summer and I know how difficult it was to keep them watered during the dry summer we have had. Kudos to Denise Hall for organizing this wonderful program that helps keep our city more attractive.
Gold of a ripe oat straw, gold of a southwest moon,
Canada thistle blue and flimmering larkspur blue,
Tomatoes shining in the October sun with red hearts,
—Carl Sandburg (1878–1967) "Cornhuskers," Falltime (1918)
Monday, September 26, 2005
Ray and Nadia
Here are Ray and Nadia standing under a bower of their Morning Glories
aside their home.
Downtown Dacha
Nadia and Ray Hicks of Central Ave. have worked hard on their downtown “dacha”.
Dachas are country plots in Russia for city dwellers to have a place to garden and just to “get away” from the city. Ray and his Russian born wife Nadia have turned that concept around and created a dacha in the heart of downtown Middletown. It is truly a lovely sight when traveling down Central Ave. toward the downtown area. There are always things in bloom during the entire growing season. Right now there are both hardy hibiscus and Rose of Sharon of all sorts blooming throughout the yard with Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Morning Glories, roses, gorgeous fall blooming iris, purple and white phlox, dahlias, Moonflower Datura, and more.
Ray and Nadia Hicks moved into their home eight years ago. At that time, the property was run as a boarding house for about eight people, and the yard was bare with a rickety wooden fence. With determination, imagination and a vision of a “downtown dacha” the couple set to work and created a beautiful garden. To create the “bones” of the garden, the couple used the Middletown Antique Mall across the street as a resource and purchased antique iron fencing and gates to provide a “frame” for the pretty garden picture. Statues and unusual garden ornaments are artfully arranged here and there throughout the yard. A pleasant and cozy outdoor sitting area has been created between the former carriage house and horse “barn.” The couple likes to sit here and have tea and coffee. The interior of the house was also completely refurbished and redone, and the couple furnished it with antiques, again, from the Middletown Antique Mall.
Ray and Nadia are constantly exchanging smiles and glances and almost glow with happiness. She says “He plants everything and I take care of it.” They have been married for nine years. Nadia was born in a small village five hours south of Moscow. At the age of twenty, she left the village and went to work and live in St. Petersburg, formerly Leningrad. At 45, Nadia was ready for a new adventure. In the post Soviet era, she was able to obtain a work visa to work in the USA. Ray met Nadia at a friend’s home and immediately they were attracted to each other. Not too long afterwards they were married and have been together ever since, except for a time after the events of September 11, 2001. Nadia was in Russia visiting her relatives at the time and then had a great deal of trouble and red tape returning to her husband Ray. Ray worked hard to get her back home and stayed busy working in their garden to occupy the two years and seven months they were apart. Her parents still live in the village of Mourom –they are both in their eighties now. They have a garden and are still actively gardening. The couple go to visit her parents and her married daughter every year. Her daughter Julia lives in St. Petersburg, Russia with her husband Alexei and her children Olya and Ilyusha. Ray spoke of the beauty of St. Petersburg with its onion domes and beautiful buildings all set against the backdrop of the Neva River. After all their hard work and efforts that have provided a very attractive spot in the downtown area, the couple is ready to embark on a new adventure. They are selling their lovely home and are moving to Marshall Rd. There they will have a new garden and already are making plans for it. Ray and Nadia will be taking starts from this garden they have lovingly created to plant at their new home.
Dachas are country plots in Russia for city dwellers to have a place to garden and just to “get away” from the city. Ray and his Russian born wife Nadia have turned that concept around and created a dacha in the heart of downtown Middletown. It is truly a lovely sight when traveling down Central Ave. toward the downtown area. There are always things in bloom during the entire growing season. Right now there are both hardy hibiscus and Rose of Sharon of all sorts blooming throughout the yard with Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Morning Glories, roses, gorgeous fall blooming iris, purple and white phlox, dahlias, Moonflower Datura, and more.
Ray and Nadia Hicks moved into their home eight years ago. At that time, the property was run as a boarding house for about eight people, and the yard was bare with a rickety wooden fence. With determination, imagination and a vision of a “downtown dacha” the couple set to work and created a beautiful garden. To create the “bones” of the garden, the couple used the Middletown Antique Mall across the street as a resource and purchased antique iron fencing and gates to provide a “frame” for the pretty garden picture. Statues and unusual garden ornaments are artfully arranged here and there throughout the yard. A pleasant and cozy outdoor sitting area has been created between the former carriage house and horse “barn.” The couple likes to sit here and have tea and coffee. The interior of the house was also completely refurbished and redone, and the couple furnished it with antiques, again, from the Middletown Antique Mall.
Ray and Nadia are constantly exchanging smiles and glances and almost glow with happiness. She says “He plants everything and I take care of it.” They have been married for nine years. Nadia was born in a small village five hours south of Moscow. At the age of twenty, she left the village and went to work and live in St. Petersburg, formerly Leningrad. At 45, Nadia was ready for a new adventure. In the post Soviet era, she was able to obtain a work visa to work in the USA. Ray met Nadia at a friend’s home and immediately they were attracted to each other. Not too long afterwards they were married and have been together ever since, except for a time after the events of September 11, 2001. Nadia was in Russia visiting her relatives at the time and then had a great deal of trouble and red tape returning to her husband Ray. Ray worked hard to get her back home and stayed busy working in their garden to occupy the two years and seven months they were apart. Her parents still live in the village of Mourom –they are both in their eighties now. They have a garden and are still actively gardening. The couple go to visit her parents and her married daughter every year. Her daughter Julia lives in St. Petersburg, Russia with her husband Alexei and her children Olya and Ilyusha. Ray spoke of the beauty of St. Petersburg with its onion domes and beautiful buildings all set against the backdrop of the Neva River. After all their hard work and efforts that have provided a very attractive spot in the downtown area, the couple is ready to embark on a new adventure. They are selling their lovely home and are moving to Marshall Rd. There they will have a new garden and already are making plans for it. Ray and Nadia will be taking starts from this garden they have lovingly created to plant at their new home.
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Fall To Do List
Fall is a wonderful time to work in your garden. The weather is cooler and there is almost always more rain than in summer. more rain means less time watering and more time to work in the garden. There are many garden tasks best accomplished in autumn.
Your lawn may have some bare patches – did you know that fall is the best time to plant grass seed? Grass sown in autumn has two growing seasons to get strong and established - fall and spring. Sown in fall, it has the added benefit of cooler fall temps and less weeds germinating, The six weeks from Sept. 15 to Oct. 31 is the time to do this.
Another thing to do to help your lawn is to put down some pre-emergent weed killer. In this category, since I am a devotee of only organic methods – I recommend using something like WOW Plus, sold by www.gardensalive.com. What is this? It is a natural byproduct of corn syrup production to spread on your lawn that will both prevent weeds from germinating now and in the spring and will also feed your lawn. After applying it, kids and pets can immediately play on the lawn with no ill effects whatsoever – it is totally harmless.
This product will suppress seed germination of grass as well, so should be applied only after any newly sown grass has had a little growth.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees. Since most people don’t think about this fact, plant nurseries mark down their remaining stock in the fall. Take advantage of this and scope out what your local garden center has to offer. I have gotten some excellent bargains by scouting out reduced nursery stock in fall. Perennials, shrubs and trees planted now will develop a good strong root system and will be raring to go in the spring. They will far surpass things planted in spring with the benefit of the fall season and the dormant period of the winter season. For perennials, try to plant by mid October at the latest.
For early, mid and late spring blooms now is the time to plant bulbs. Have you admired daffodils, tulips, and other bright blooms in spring when your own garden was just bare – waiting for the last frost date to get started in your yard? If you plant a selection of bulbs in the fall, you too can have color and beauty starting in March. Bulbs can be planted from e
Your lawn may have some bare patches – did you know that fall is the best time to plant grass seed? Grass sown in autumn has two growing seasons to get strong and established - fall and spring. Sown in fall, it has the added benefit of cooler fall temps and less weeds germinating, The six weeks from Sept. 15 to Oct. 31 is the time to do this.
Another thing to do to help your lawn is to put down some pre-emergent weed killer. In this category, since I am a devotee of only organic methods – I recommend using something like WOW Plus, sold by www.gardensalive.com. What is this? It is a natural byproduct of corn syrup production to spread on your lawn that will both prevent weeds from germinating now and in the spring and will also feed your lawn. After applying it, kids and pets can immediately play on the lawn with no ill effects whatsoever – it is totally harmless.
This product will suppress seed germination of grass as well, so should be applied only after any newly sown grass has had a little growth.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees. Since most people don’t think about this fact, plant nurseries mark down their remaining stock in the fall. Take advantage of this and scope out what your local garden center has to offer. I have gotten some excellent bargains by scouting out reduced nursery stock in fall. Perennials, shrubs and trees planted now will develop a good strong root system and will be raring to go in the spring. They will far surpass things planted in spring with the benefit of the fall season and the dormant period of the winter season. For perennials, try to plant by mid October at the latest.
For early, mid and late spring blooms now is the time to plant bulbs. Have you admired daffodils, tulips, and other bright blooms in spring when your own garden was just bare – waiting for the last frost date to get started in your yard? If you plant a selection of bulbs in the fall, you too can have color and beauty starting in March. Bulbs can be planted from e
Friday, September 16, 2005
More Great Bulbs To Plant
In talking about bulbs to plant in fall, I have covered tulips and daffodils. There are many other bulbs to plant for interesting and beautiful displays in spring and even into summer.
The first bulbs to show their little heads in the chilly days of March (sometimes even in late February) are the sweet white blooms of snowdrops (Galanthus). Plant a few of these to give you hope of spring in those last dark days of winter. I have a neighbor that has a large colony of hundreds of these under a tree, but a dozen or so planted near a walkway that you pass daily would be enough to brighten some gloomy March days. A good variety is Galanthus elwesii. Galanthus nivalis “Flore Pleno” is a double snowdrop with green tipped petals – also quite sweet.
The next to arrive on the spring bulb scene are crocuses. Definitely choose the ones named “Giant Crocus,” as the smaller ones are really tiny. Deer do not bother these bulbs, and they will even come up through snow. Another early bloomer that is quite stunning and also deerproof, is the diminutive Rockgarden Iris – Iris reticulata. They bloom in early April and are available for your garden in a few colors, but far and away my favorite is “Harmony,” with its pert little blooms with two shades of blue - accented with yellow and white. Another variety that sounds very promising is the new Iris reticulata “Gordon,” with blooms of blue, violet, and bits of orange and white.
Chionodoxa are another short early bulb also called “Glory of the Snow.” Available in blue or white, I prefer the blue heirloom variety Chionodoxa forbesii (circa 1880), which will bear between four to twelve precious little blooms per bulb. Scilla siberica is also a must have. The only Scilla I plant is this one as it bears tiny bright blue flowers and looks wonderful planted around daffodils as an underplanting.
The more of these small bulbs the better and you can plant them all in your lawn in groups and en masse. These small bulbs only need to be planted three or four inches deep. I use a dibbler, a tool that pokes holes in the soil and then drop a bulb in each hole. You can also use a bulb drill or just take a spade and lift a portion of your turf (like a flap) and put a few bulbs underneath and pat back into place. To get a natural effect – take a handful of bulbs, hold them while standing above the planting area, drop them, and then plant where they land. All the bulbs I mentioned are short early bloomers so when you are ready to cut the grass they won’t be harmed.
There are a few very unique bulbs bearing the name Fritillaria that you won’t regret planting. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) is the queen of the group. They burst from the ground in late April with a thick cluster of foliage, grow to two feet tall and then have a “crown” of either yellow or burnt orange circular clusters of bell shaped flowers. Almost other-wordly, they have an odd “foxy” smell that repels rodents, so good to plant with tulips to protect them from the little scavengers. Fritillaria meleagris (Checkered Lily or Guinea Hen Flower) is another very unique bulb that bears nodding bells of ~yes~ actual checkered purple and white flowers on slender stems about a foot high. At $16.50 per hundred in my Van Engelen catalog - I am planting a hundred in my cool moist hosta bed to make a show before the hostas even think about unfurling their leaves.
To make a big statement in May and June plant some Alliums. These are in the onion family and come in all sorts of heights, sizes, and colors, usually with globe shaped blooms. For years I have been longing to plant some of the “Globemaster” alliums with their huge round flower clusters (10” across) on 24 to 36 inch stems. There was a stunning display of them at the new Veteran’s Memorial at Woodside Cemetery this past May. This is the year I will plant some. At $5 or $6 a bulb or more, they are pricey but so worth it for years of dramatic purple blooms every late May. There are other varieties as well – and they are all deer resistant. “Firmamament” is another tall Allium with 8” purple flowers with a silvery sheen.
As you can see, if one gets busy and plants a variety of bulbs – one may have blooms from March to June before the humdrum annuals even get going.
The first bulbs to show their little heads in the chilly days of March (sometimes even in late February) are the sweet white blooms of snowdrops (Galanthus). Plant a few of these to give you hope of spring in those last dark days of winter. I have a neighbor that has a large colony of hundreds of these under a tree, but a dozen or so planted near a walkway that you pass daily would be enough to brighten some gloomy March days. A good variety is Galanthus elwesii. Galanthus nivalis “Flore Pleno” is a double snowdrop with green tipped petals – also quite sweet.
The next to arrive on the spring bulb scene are crocuses. Definitely choose the ones named “Giant Crocus,” as the smaller ones are really tiny. Deer do not bother these bulbs, and they will even come up through snow. Another early bloomer that is quite stunning and also deerproof, is the diminutive Rockgarden Iris – Iris reticulata. They bloom in early April and are available for your garden in a few colors, but far and away my favorite is “Harmony,” with its pert little blooms with two shades of blue - accented with yellow and white. Another variety that sounds very promising is the new Iris reticulata “Gordon,” with blooms of blue, violet, and bits of orange and white.
Chionodoxa are another short early bulb also called “Glory of the Snow.” Available in blue or white, I prefer the blue heirloom variety Chionodoxa forbesii (circa 1880), which will bear between four to twelve precious little blooms per bulb. Scilla siberica is also a must have. The only Scilla I plant is this one as it bears tiny bright blue flowers and looks wonderful planted around daffodils as an underplanting.
The more of these small bulbs the better and you can plant them all in your lawn in groups and en masse. These small bulbs only need to be planted three or four inches deep. I use a dibbler, a tool that pokes holes in the soil and then drop a bulb in each hole. You can also use a bulb drill or just take a spade and lift a portion of your turf (like a flap) and put a few bulbs underneath and pat back into place. To get a natural effect – take a handful of bulbs, hold them while standing above the planting area, drop them, and then plant where they land. All the bulbs I mentioned are short early bloomers so when you are ready to cut the grass they won’t be harmed.
There are a few very unique bulbs bearing the name Fritillaria that you won’t regret planting. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) is the queen of the group. They burst from the ground in late April with a thick cluster of foliage, grow to two feet tall and then have a “crown” of either yellow or burnt orange circular clusters of bell shaped flowers. Almost other-wordly, they have an odd “foxy” smell that repels rodents, so good to plant with tulips to protect them from the little scavengers. Fritillaria meleagris (Checkered Lily or Guinea Hen Flower) is another very unique bulb that bears nodding bells of ~yes~ actual checkered purple and white flowers on slender stems about a foot high. At $16.50 per hundred in my Van Engelen catalog - I am planting a hundred in my cool moist hosta bed to make a show before the hostas even think about unfurling their leaves.
To make a big statement in May and June plant some Alliums. These are in the onion family and come in all sorts of heights, sizes, and colors, usually with globe shaped blooms. For years I have been longing to plant some of the “Globemaster” alliums with their huge round flower clusters (10” across) on 24 to 36 inch stems. There was a stunning display of them at the new Veteran’s Memorial at Woodside Cemetery this past May. This is the year I will plant some. At $5 or $6 a bulb or more, they are pricey but so worth it for years of dramatic purple blooms every late May. There are other varieties as well – and they are all deer resistant. “Firmamament” is another tall Allium with 8” purple flowers with a silvery sheen.
As you can see, if one gets busy and plants a variety of bulbs – one may have blooms from March to June before the humdrum annuals even get going.
Tuesday, September 13, 2005
Not an Ordinary Gardener
Teresa Wesselman is not a run of the mill gardener. She seeks out the different and the unusual. Even now in September, she has things in bloom that are out of the ordinary – yellow corydalis, Tricyrtis “Samurai,” Asclepias curassavica, and others.
How did her interest in gardening begin? Teresa cannot remember when she has not been interested in growing things. At this point Teresa estimates that she has at least 250 different varieties of perennial, bulbs, vines, and shrubs in her city sized lot.
Many unusual specimens can be found on a tour of her garden. While Teresa shows me around her yard, her love of her plants is plainly visible – she knows all the Latin names of her plants, their growing habits, their individual idiosyncrasies, and their cultivation needs.
Ephedra regia dates back to prehistoric times, and a specimen of it now lives in Teresa’s trough planter. Her bog planter has Horsetail rush and Corkscrew Rush, an oddity that is fun to see. A twig trellis features a climbing annual vine – “Love in a Puff” or Cardiospermum halicacabum. There is a plant with lovely foliage and unusual seedpods called Prairie Mimosa or Desmanthes illinoensis in her large sunny round mixed bed. In spring and into summer her shady beds feature plants such as Jack in the Pulpit, Uvularia, Corydalis, Tricyrtis, Anemonella thalictroides (Rue anemone), Birdsfoot violet, Hepatica, and Cimicifuga (Snakeroot). She has also planted some unusual hostas such as “Ghost Spirit.” This variety needs fairly dense shade to retain its unusual white color. Teresa has tried to include plants from A – Amsonia to Z – Zizia in her very personalized garden.
Some of her sunny areas include some really wonderful specimens. Berlandiera lyrata - “Chocolate Flower,” blooms for at least three months and smells deliciously just like chocolate. Caryopteris divaricata “Snow Fairy,” features beautifully variegated leaves and is just starting to open its many blue flowers. It will continue to bloom into October and is a small shrub to three feet tall and wide. The foliage smells just like cut up green peppers.
There are several overflowing containers on Teresa’s deck and around her yard. They are not planted with the typical and predictable (some would say boring) petunias or geraniums, but are creatively planted with intriguing combinations of Black and Blue Salvia (hummingbird favorite), Bat Face Cuphea, White Nymph salvia, Lotus vine, Gartenmeister fuschia with tubular coral blooms and various varieties of colorful coleus.
One of Teresa’ favorite flowers is the Columbine and she grows 17 varieties. Some of her more unusual columbines are Chocolate Soldier, Dorothy Rose, Ruby Port and her personal favorite - Nana Alba – a pure white columbine with short spurs.
Teresa’s fiancé Ted is supportive of her love of plants and has dutifully done quite a bit of planting, digging and mulching. Ted, an avid woodworker, recently completed a really lovely greenhouse for Teresa, to allow her to extend the growing season, and to winter over some more tender specimens that will not tolerate Ohio winters.
Teresa’s love of plants extends to her choice of profession. She works in the Perennial Dept. at Bern’s Garden Center, so is always aware of the newest arrivals to perhaps add to her garden. Teresa enjoys working among the plants she so loves. She also goes online frequently to learn more about plants she is interested in, and to shop for the more unusual varieties that are difficult to find locally.
Fall plans for Teresa include soon ordering and planting some unusual fall bulbs – Tulipa oculata – a white species tulip with a bluish base, Tulipa acuminata – another species tulip that is yellow with scarlet edges, a Triandrus Narcissi called “Katy Heath,” Fritillaria pudica – with bright yellow bell shaped blooms with purple tinged edges, Fritillaria pallidiflora – chartreuse blooms with reddish brown spots, and Brodiaea coccinea – that will sport blooms that resemble little firecrackers and also will attract hummingbirds in late spring.
Hummingbird feeders are hung here and there in Teresa’s garden and she loves to sit on her deck in the early evenings watching them feed. Teresa will be the first to say that her garden is very much a “work in progress.” She is always lovingly adding new plants, ruthlessly ripping out old ones that no longer serve her purpose, and moving things to satisfy her garden vision at the moment, so there is always something new to see and enjoy in her garden.
How did her interest in gardening begin? Teresa cannot remember when she has not been interested in growing things. At this point Teresa estimates that she has at least 250 different varieties of perennial, bulbs, vines, and shrubs in her city sized lot.
Many unusual specimens can be found on a tour of her garden. While Teresa shows me around her yard, her love of her plants is plainly visible – she knows all the Latin names of her plants, their growing habits, their individual idiosyncrasies, and their cultivation needs.
Ephedra regia dates back to prehistoric times, and a specimen of it now lives in Teresa’s trough planter. Her bog planter has Horsetail rush and Corkscrew Rush, an oddity that is fun to see. A twig trellis features a climbing annual vine – “Love in a Puff” or Cardiospermum halicacabum. There is a plant with lovely foliage and unusual seedpods called Prairie Mimosa or Desmanthes illinoensis in her large sunny round mixed bed. In spring and into summer her shady beds feature plants such as Jack in the Pulpit, Uvularia, Corydalis, Tricyrtis, Anemonella thalictroides (Rue anemone), Birdsfoot violet, Hepatica, and Cimicifuga (Snakeroot). She has also planted some unusual hostas such as “Ghost Spirit.” This variety needs fairly dense shade to retain its unusual white color. Teresa has tried to include plants from A – Amsonia to Z – Zizia in her very personalized garden.
Some of her sunny areas include some really wonderful specimens. Berlandiera lyrata - “Chocolate Flower,” blooms for at least three months and smells deliciously just like chocolate. Caryopteris divaricata “Snow Fairy,” features beautifully variegated leaves and is just starting to open its many blue flowers. It will continue to bloom into October and is a small shrub to three feet tall and wide. The foliage smells just like cut up green peppers.
There are several overflowing containers on Teresa’s deck and around her yard. They are not planted with the typical and predictable (some would say boring) petunias or geraniums, but are creatively planted with intriguing combinations of Black and Blue Salvia (hummingbird favorite), Bat Face Cuphea, White Nymph salvia, Lotus vine, Gartenmeister fuschia with tubular coral blooms and various varieties of colorful coleus.
One of Teresa’ favorite flowers is the Columbine and she grows 17 varieties. Some of her more unusual columbines are Chocolate Soldier, Dorothy Rose, Ruby Port and her personal favorite - Nana Alba – a pure white columbine with short spurs.
Teresa’s fiancé Ted is supportive of her love of plants and has dutifully done quite a bit of planting, digging and mulching. Ted, an avid woodworker, recently completed a really lovely greenhouse for Teresa, to allow her to extend the growing season, and to winter over some more tender specimens that will not tolerate Ohio winters.
Teresa’s love of plants extends to her choice of profession. She works in the Perennial Dept. at Bern’s Garden Center, so is always aware of the newest arrivals to perhaps add to her garden. Teresa enjoys working among the plants she so loves. She also goes online frequently to learn more about plants she is interested in, and to shop for the more unusual varieties that are difficult to find locally.
Fall plans for Teresa include soon ordering and planting some unusual fall bulbs – Tulipa oculata – a white species tulip with a bluish base, Tulipa acuminata – another species tulip that is yellow with scarlet edges, a Triandrus Narcissi called “Katy Heath,” Fritillaria pudica – with bright yellow bell shaped blooms with purple tinged edges, Fritillaria pallidiflora – chartreuse blooms with reddish brown spots, and Brodiaea coccinea – that will sport blooms that resemble little firecrackers and also will attract hummingbirds in late spring.
Hummingbird feeders are hung here and there in Teresa’s garden and she loves to sit on her deck in the early evenings watching them feed. Teresa will be the first to say that her garden is very much a “work in progress.” She is always lovingly adding new plants, ruthlessly ripping out old ones that no longer serve her purpose, and moving things to satisfy her garden vision at the moment, so there is always something new to see and enjoy in her garden.
Tulips!!!
This week – Tulips! You know you want tulips in spring with their bright showy colors. The range of variation in tulips is so wide, you are sure to find one or three or twenty you just HAVE to have.
Concerning whether the tulips you select will perennialize, the truth is most tulips do not come back well for years. Most bloom well for two or three years and are then done. Consider this your opportunity to redo your color scheme every couple of years. There are so many variations in tulips you will want to try many. Species tulips will perennialize better than most. These are smaller but can still have a big impact. They look good tucked here and there in such places as rock gardens. For big presence and faithfully returning year after year choose Darwin Hybrid tulips. These are available in a range of colors and combinations of colors. Most of these are about two feet in height with huge flowers. “Banja Luka” is a very striking Darwin Hybrid with deep yellow petals accented with bold markings of bright red. “Ollioules” (don’t ask me how to pronounce this), “Elizabeth Arden” and “Pink Impression” are three excellent selections for those of you who like pink like I do.
For a fantastic variety in color try some “Triumph” tulips. One can plant some very striking color combinations using the many varieties available. Greigii tulips are unique with their mottled leaves and also gorgeous flowers. Since I have such fond memories of my two trips to Russia, I think I will plant the Greigii tulip – “Tsar Peter.”
Lily flowering tulips are just what they claim – they resemble lilies with their pointed petals and narrow graceful blooms. “Marilyn” is white edged with a startling red. “Westpoint” is a lovely yellow. With red petals and gold tips, “Queen of Sheba” is a striking lily flowered choice.
For all of you who like something very different in your gardens – no plain red tulips for you! – try the Parrot tulips. I have had these return for a few years quite well and I really love them. Their petals are curled and twisted in bizarre shapes in some awesome colors. My favorite is Black Parrot – a dark purple black. I would love to be able to plant a group of fifty of these – alas – haven’t the room. Apricot Parrot is also stunning in a combination of cream, yellow, pink, and green – it has won several awards.
Another unusual tulip variety are the Viridiflora tulips. They last a long time and have prominent green feather markings on their petals. My favorite of these is “Greenland” with cream petals looking as if they were dipped in rose colored paint and accented with spring green feather markings on the sides.
Peony flowering tulips are just that – they resemble peonies with fully double petals. My two favorites here are “Black Hero,” a very dark near-black purple and “Angelique,” an ethereal blend of cream and pink.
Fringed Tulips aka “Crispa Tulips” add an elegant and beautiful look to your spring garden with their petals that are edged with a fine delicate looking fringe. There is one that is nearly breath taking – “Cummins” – lavender with prominent white-fringed edges – but they are all beautiful.
In conclusion I would like to say no matter what tulip you decide to select it will always be an excellent choice. You will definitely enjoy their bright blooms come spring.
Perennial Spotlight on: Variegated Filipendula
This is a shade/part shade perennial that has gorgeously marked leaves. It reaches about three feet tall eventually. Mine is at two feet and is two years old. The small but attractive blooms are somewhat like astilbes, are fragrant in a creamy white color, and flower in July. The foliage is what I really love. It is a wonderful bright contrast in a mixed shade bed of other shade lovers – hostas, ferns, meadow rue, hellebores, etc. It likes moist soil and dislikes full sun.
Concerning whether the tulips you select will perennialize, the truth is most tulips do not come back well for years. Most bloom well for two or three years and are then done. Consider this your opportunity to redo your color scheme every couple of years. There are so many variations in tulips you will want to try many. Species tulips will perennialize better than most. These are smaller but can still have a big impact. They look good tucked here and there in such places as rock gardens. For big presence and faithfully returning year after year choose Darwin Hybrid tulips. These are available in a range of colors and combinations of colors. Most of these are about two feet in height with huge flowers. “Banja Luka” is a very striking Darwin Hybrid with deep yellow petals accented with bold markings of bright red. “Ollioules” (don’t ask me how to pronounce this), “Elizabeth Arden” and “Pink Impression” are three excellent selections for those of you who like pink like I do.
For a fantastic variety in color try some “Triumph” tulips. One can plant some very striking color combinations using the many varieties available. Greigii tulips are unique with their mottled leaves and also gorgeous flowers. Since I have such fond memories of my two trips to Russia, I think I will plant the Greigii tulip – “Tsar Peter.”
Lily flowering tulips are just what they claim – they resemble lilies with their pointed petals and narrow graceful blooms. “Marilyn” is white edged with a startling red. “Westpoint” is a lovely yellow. With red petals and gold tips, “Queen of Sheba” is a striking lily flowered choice.
For all of you who like something very different in your gardens – no plain red tulips for you! – try the Parrot tulips. I have had these return for a few years quite well and I really love them. Their petals are curled and twisted in bizarre shapes in some awesome colors. My favorite is Black Parrot – a dark purple black. I would love to be able to plant a group of fifty of these – alas – haven’t the room. Apricot Parrot is also stunning in a combination of cream, yellow, pink, and green – it has won several awards.
Another unusual tulip variety are the Viridiflora tulips. They last a long time and have prominent green feather markings on their petals. My favorite of these is “Greenland” with cream petals looking as if they were dipped in rose colored paint and accented with spring green feather markings on the sides.
Peony flowering tulips are just that – they resemble peonies with fully double petals. My two favorites here are “Black Hero,” a very dark near-black purple and “Angelique,” an ethereal blend of cream and pink.
Fringed Tulips aka “Crispa Tulips” add an elegant and beautiful look to your spring garden with their petals that are edged with a fine delicate looking fringe. There is one that is nearly breath taking – “Cummins” – lavender with prominent white-fringed edges – but they are all beautiful.
In conclusion I would like to say no matter what tulip you decide to select it will always be an excellent choice. You will definitely enjoy their bright blooms come spring.
Perennial Spotlight on: Variegated Filipendula
This is a shade/part shade perennial that has gorgeously marked leaves. It reaches about three feet tall eventually. Mine is at two feet and is two years old. The small but attractive blooms are somewhat like astilbes, are fragrant in a creamy white color, and flower in July. The foliage is what I really love. It is a wonderful bright contrast in a mixed shade bed of other shade lovers – hostas, ferns, meadow rue, hellebores, etc. It likes moist soil and dislikes full sun.
Monday, August 08, 2005
Early August Column
The other day I suggested to my 13 year old Alex that we walk to the store for a couple of things we need as a way to get some sunshine, fresh air, (and time together). As we walked past a couple of dozen front yards I regaled her with the names of many of the plants we were passing. As usual, she was glued to my every word (ha!) She did show interest in a large mass of blooming nightshade when I informed her it was very poisonous. We cut through a long alley on the way to Dillman’s and I saw many overgrown weeds. This got me to thinking that I don’t know the names of many common weeds that I see frequently. I stood and studied a large weed and wondered aloud what the name of it was. Alex was of course attentively listening to my plant taxonomy musings (translation – she was thirty feet away walking rapidly in the opposite direction in order to get back to her PC) When I got home I found in an email from one of my gardening mailing lists (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GardeningOrganically/) a very good guide to identifying common weeds - www.weedalert.com. What a serendipitous find! I now can identify “lamb’s quarter,” “buckhorn plantain,” “horseweed,” and more.
Last week I said I would talk about Dianthus. The word “Dianthus” comes from two Greek words - dios meaning “god” and anthos meaning “flower” – in other words – “divine flower.” Dianthus plants have been around a long time and were mentioned in the writings of an ancient Greek botanist – Theophrastus – the successor of Aristotle. In the past couple of years I have become more and more fond of this large family of blooming plants, which includes “pinks,” carnations, and Sweet Williams. I remember having tall Sweet Williams in my tiny garden when I was a child. They are easy to grow, generally needing only decent well-drained soil and lots of sun. They don’t like to stay wet – if they do – they will quickly rot and die. They are very hardy in this area and are suitable for hot sunny areas, troughs, well-drained containers, etc. Most flower in late spring and early summer for a number of weeks. Many newer varieties now flower all summer and into the fall. Some are annuals, some biennials, and most are perennials. A good portion of Dianthus are also quite fragrant – “Bath’s Pink” is one that comes to mind. Many of the blooms of the Dianthus family are pink, or variations of pink. The foliage is generally very attractive shades of blue/green or gray/green. When they become large, they may be dug up and divided. Never plant them any deeper than the crown. I have read they are easily grown from seed, but I have never done this thus far. In the past two years I have bought several varieties and one of my absolute favorites is “Helen,” which bears lots of deep salmon-pink very double blooms. Deadhead or shear back your Dianthus for an attractive appearance and extended bloom time.
It is now August and high time to be thinking about next spring. If you have never planted bulbs before in the fall, it is time to do it. If you have planted bulbs in the past, you know how rewarding it is to have these gorgeous flowers come up in spring before annuals are even in the garden store and you probably want more. I suggest you send for a few catalogs or peruse the online catalogs and start planning what you want and order by September at the latest. They will be delivered at the proper time. As an alternative one can buy bulbs locally, but I prefer the other way as one then has plenty of time to browse, decide what combinations would look good and where to plant them. A big plus – the bulbs are delivered right to your door and they offer a huge selection from which to choose. I will spend a few columns discussing different bulbs to plant. Some of my favorite bulb companies are – www.dutchgardens.com (888-821-0448), www.johnscheepers.com (860-567-08380) and www.vanengelen.com (860-567-87340). The last two are owned by the same company, but Van Engelen offers larger quantities at wholesale prices (with no pictures, only botanical names and also descriptions).
Last week I said I would talk about Dianthus. The word “Dianthus” comes from two Greek words - dios meaning “god” and anthos meaning “flower” – in other words – “divine flower.” Dianthus plants have been around a long time and were mentioned in the writings of an ancient Greek botanist – Theophrastus – the successor of Aristotle. In the past couple of years I have become more and more fond of this large family of blooming plants, which includes “pinks,” carnations, and Sweet Williams. I remember having tall Sweet Williams in my tiny garden when I was a child. They are easy to grow, generally needing only decent well-drained soil and lots of sun. They don’t like to stay wet – if they do – they will quickly rot and die. They are very hardy in this area and are suitable for hot sunny areas, troughs, well-drained containers, etc. Most flower in late spring and early summer for a number of weeks. Many newer varieties now flower all summer and into the fall. Some are annuals, some biennials, and most are perennials. A good portion of Dianthus are also quite fragrant – “Bath’s Pink” is one that comes to mind. Many of the blooms of the Dianthus family are pink, or variations of pink. The foliage is generally very attractive shades of blue/green or gray/green. When they become large, they may be dug up and divided. Never plant them any deeper than the crown. I have read they are easily grown from seed, but I have never done this thus far. In the past two years I have bought several varieties and one of my absolute favorites is “Helen,” which bears lots of deep salmon-pink very double blooms. Deadhead or shear back your Dianthus for an attractive appearance and extended bloom time.
It is now August and high time to be thinking about next spring. If you have never planted bulbs before in the fall, it is time to do it. If you have planted bulbs in the past, you know how rewarding it is to have these gorgeous flowers come up in spring before annuals are even in the garden store and you probably want more. I suggest you send for a few catalogs or peruse the online catalogs and start planning what you want and order by September at the latest. They will be delivered at the proper time. As an alternative one can buy bulbs locally, but I prefer the other way as one then has plenty of time to browse, decide what combinations would look good and where to plant them. A big plus – the bulbs are delivered right to your door and they offer a huge selection from which to choose. I will spend a few columns discussing different bulbs to plant. Some of my favorite bulb companies are – www.dutchgardens.com (888-821-0448), www.johnscheepers.com (860-567-08380) and www.vanengelen.com (860-567-87340). The last two are owned by the same company, but Van Engelen offers larger quantities at wholesale prices (with no pictures, only botanical names and also descriptions).
Thursday, July 28, 2005
Scented Geraniums
I wish I could see how everyone’s gardens are doing. I see many front yard gardens that look absolutely gorgeous and unique. In my tiny vegetable garden, the tomatoes are getting bigger, but not coloring yet – still green. I have picked a few yellow summer squash, some beans, some peppers, and I see my cucumber vines are loaded with tiny cukes. I had a question from a reader who is unhappy with how peppers grow in Ohio as compared to Texas. The peppers I planted in containers look fantastic and are hung with lots of ripening peppers. This has been my experience in the past as well. The few I planted in the ground grew much more slowly and don’t look as vigorous, or produce as well. I don’t know why this is, but will continue to plant peppers in containers with fresh potting mix (I prefer Ferti-Lome) and some Osmocote (long acting fertilizer) and supplementary feedings of fish emulsion and seaweed powder.
About three weeks ago I purchased some scented geraniums (officially Pelargoniums) from a local business on Grand Ave. I was so impressed by the vigor of the geraniums and the variety I actually bought nine. Yes, I nearly always get carried away during plant shopping! Scented Geraniums are considered herbs, and are very easy to grow. I simply potted them all up in some clay pots and set them on a plant stand in a sunny area. I love to stop and smell the leaves each time I walk by. There are many cultivars (over 150, with about 50 variations of the rose-scented alone) of these scented geraniums. The plants originally come from South Africa. The varieties I purchased were – “Skeleton Rose,” “Snowflake”(with variegated velvety leaves), “Round Leaf Orange,” “Mint,” “Old Fashioned Rose,” “Velvet Rose,” ”Citronella,” “Apple,” and “Crispum Lemon.” They all bear attractive small delicate flowers as a bonus to their lovely leaves and yummy scent. I love to tear off a leaf and carry it to sniff as I go about my day. These can be wintered over in your house during winter, as they are not hardy. To prepare for winter, cut back by half or so, and place in a sunny window or under grow lights until late April, when they can be set outside again. What else can you do with the leaves of scented geraniums? One, you can add some of the leaves to your bathwater. Two, you can dry the leaves and add to tea mixtures or to potpourri. Three, you can place fresh leaves at the bottom of cake or muffin pans before adding the batter. As the product bakes, it will be infused with the scent of the leaf. When I got married, I harvested a few dozen of the highly attractive and fragrant leaves from a huge scented geranium my mother has, and had the cake baker decorate my cake with the leaves along with a few dozen roses. The effect was gorgeous and Victorian looking. If you would like to view excellent pictures of various types, try this website – www.hobbsfarm.com - they sell all sorts of geraniums – miniature, scented, fancy leaf, etc.
Another reader thought her Tricyrtis (Toad Lily) looked a little burnt on the edges, and wanted to know if she should add Miracle-Gro. Toad lilies occasionally do this in the first year, so I recommended she leave it alone. Sometimes one can hurt plants with too much “fussing.” Perennials do not need any fertilizer per se the first year. I do (if I have it on hand) use bone meal or Triple Super Phosphate in the planting hole initially. This stimulates good root growth and helps the plant get established. After that, I never actually “fertilize” perennials – I merely sheet compost as I described in last week’s column, or add some cow manure once a year. This is sufficient for perennials. For annuals, including vegetables, I do as I described for the peppers earlier – Osmocote, fish emulsion, and seaweed powder. I add nothing else, except monthly Epsom salts for roses, peppers, and tomatoes. Be careful of over watering as well. For most potted plants, wait until the soil is dry to water again. I gave my oldest daughter Sarah several containers of annuals for her apartment deck. She was enthusiastically watering daily (she is a chemist, not a gardener - yet!), and they started looking bad, until I found out and told her to cut back some on the watering. Next week - all about Dianthus and time to think about next spring!
About three weeks ago I purchased some scented geraniums (officially Pelargoniums) from a local business on Grand Ave. I was so impressed by the vigor of the geraniums and the variety I actually bought nine. Yes, I nearly always get carried away during plant shopping! Scented Geraniums are considered herbs, and are very easy to grow. I simply potted them all up in some clay pots and set them on a plant stand in a sunny area. I love to stop and smell the leaves each time I walk by. There are many cultivars (over 150, with about 50 variations of the rose-scented alone) of these scented geraniums. The plants originally come from South Africa. The varieties I purchased were – “Skeleton Rose,” “Snowflake”(with variegated velvety leaves), “Round Leaf Orange,” “Mint,” “Old Fashioned Rose,” “Velvet Rose,” ”Citronella,” “Apple,” and “Crispum Lemon.” They all bear attractive small delicate flowers as a bonus to their lovely leaves and yummy scent. I love to tear off a leaf and carry it to sniff as I go about my day. These can be wintered over in your house during winter, as they are not hardy. To prepare for winter, cut back by half or so, and place in a sunny window or under grow lights until late April, when they can be set outside again. What else can you do with the leaves of scented geraniums? One, you can add some of the leaves to your bathwater. Two, you can dry the leaves and add to tea mixtures or to potpourri. Three, you can place fresh leaves at the bottom of cake or muffin pans before adding the batter. As the product bakes, it will be infused with the scent of the leaf. When I got married, I harvested a few dozen of the highly attractive and fragrant leaves from a huge scented geranium my mother has, and had the cake baker decorate my cake with the leaves along with a few dozen roses. The effect was gorgeous and Victorian looking. If you would like to view excellent pictures of various types, try this website – www.hobbsfarm.com - they sell all sorts of geraniums – miniature, scented, fancy leaf, etc.
Another reader thought her Tricyrtis (Toad Lily) looked a little burnt on the edges, and wanted to know if she should add Miracle-Gro. Toad lilies occasionally do this in the first year, so I recommended she leave it alone. Sometimes one can hurt plants with too much “fussing.” Perennials do not need any fertilizer per se the first year. I do (if I have it on hand) use bone meal or Triple Super Phosphate in the planting hole initially. This stimulates good root growth and helps the plant get established. After that, I never actually “fertilize” perennials – I merely sheet compost as I described in last week’s column, or add some cow manure once a year. This is sufficient for perennials. For annuals, including vegetables, I do as I described for the peppers earlier – Osmocote, fish emulsion, and seaweed powder. I add nothing else, except monthly Epsom salts for roses, peppers, and tomatoes. Be careful of over watering as well. For most potted plants, wait until the soil is dry to water again. I gave my oldest daughter Sarah several containers of annuals for her apartment deck. She was enthusiastically watering daily (she is a chemist, not a gardener - yet!), and they started looking bad, until I found out and told her to cut back some on the watering. Next week - all about Dianthus and time to think about next spring!
Tuesday, July 19, 2005
Thursday, July 14, 2005
Sheet composting
The other day I was talking to my mother, who has quite a bit of yard space, more than I do. We were eating my small crop of beets and beet greens grown in a large pot, which were quite delicious. Next year, I said, you should plant beets, just make your garden bigger. Make it bigger the easy way. Now, I must admit, this method that I will discuss is not original, but I originally read about it in the book, “Lasagna Gardening” by Patricia Lanz, and have read more information about this type of gardening in the books by Ruth Stout, written about thirty or forty years ago. Some of the methods proposed by these authors I have already discovered on my own, mainly due to my own lack of time and quite frankly – also my aversion to unnecessary hard work. The idea is to never have to plow, till, or double dig, and to let earthworms and time do the work for you – like what occurs in nature. The method works very well, as I have tried it in several areas of my garden. It smothers the weeds and creates rich friable loose soil. It also lets one water less frequently, as rich loamy soil with a mulch of some sort retains water very well. A plant with good healthy soil is most resistant to disease and pests.
I started with a terrible weed infested hard packed and gravelly area next to my driveway. I could not even get a shovel into it, so digging it up was not even an option. One begins by laying down a thick layer of newspaper (no slick inserts) and/or cardboard from boxes. Wet the newspaper and cardboard, and then add all the organic material you can get your hands on. There is no set formula. I added bags of cow manure, top soil, and shredded leaves, about eight inches thick. More is better. Then just let it sit there. You can plant some things right away, thought it is better to give it a few months. You can begin this at any time, but now through fall is a very good time. After a few months, time and earthworms will have done the work, and you will have some very good soil and a new or enlarged garden bed. Add more organic material every year, right on top. What type of material?
Horse or cow manure, the dirty litter from rabbits or guinea pigs, all your vegetable scraps from the kitchen, used coffee grounds, eggshells, shredded leaves, grass clippings, pine needles, peat moss, bags of compost, shredded paper, leftover potting soil, regular mulch, hay– in short , as long as it is vegetative matter, it will work. Once you have plants in place – whether they are vegetables or flowers or shrubs – you still keep adding these materials. Even when you have weeds, just pull them and lay them on the soil – to decay and add nutrients to the soil. The same with plants that are done for the season, just lay them on the surface of the soil after you cut them down, leaving the roots in place to decay and also add nutrients. If you use this method, sometimes called “sheet composting, you won’t need a compost pile, and you will need little, if any, commercial fertilizer. Your soil will become rich and loose, and easy to plant. The places where I have done this for the last ten years have wonderful soil to a depth of a foot or more – and all with no tilling or digging – the earthworms will do all the work for you. The only digging I do now is to dig a big hole for a large plant or to transplant an established plant to a better location.
Would you like to know of a perennial that will grow practically anywhere, requires no care and little water, multiplies yearly, has no disease or pest problems, and will yield beautiful blooms and lush foliage that stays attractive all season long? I am talking about daylilies. There is nothing bad to say about them. Yes, we have all seen the ordinary “Stella d’Oro” daylily in practically every landscaping job, but there are so many other daylilies in gorgeous colors – pink, red, claret, lemon yellow, peach, two tone – many have double form, and some are even fragrant. Many are repeat bloomers, and most bloom for a long time in mid summer. I have quite a few and most of them are blooming at this time. I go out every morning and check out the new arrivals. The daylily is called that because each bloom lasts for one day. They can be planted at anytime one can stick a spade in the soil. My friend Teresa who works at a large garden center in southeast Middletown told me they recently got a shipment of 900 fresh daylilies – many different and unusual cultivars that are hard to find. Go check them out for some fresh new color!
I started with a terrible weed infested hard packed and gravelly area next to my driveway. I could not even get a shovel into it, so digging it up was not even an option. One begins by laying down a thick layer of newspaper (no slick inserts) and/or cardboard from boxes. Wet the newspaper and cardboard, and then add all the organic material you can get your hands on. There is no set formula. I added bags of cow manure, top soil, and shredded leaves, about eight inches thick. More is better. Then just let it sit there. You can plant some things right away, thought it is better to give it a few months. You can begin this at any time, but now through fall is a very good time. After a few months, time and earthworms will have done the work, and you will have some very good soil and a new or enlarged garden bed. Add more organic material every year, right on top. What type of material?
Horse or cow manure, the dirty litter from rabbits or guinea pigs, all your vegetable scraps from the kitchen, used coffee grounds, eggshells, shredded leaves, grass clippings, pine needles, peat moss, bags of compost, shredded paper, leftover potting soil, regular mulch, hay– in short , as long as it is vegetative matter, it will work. Once you have plants in place – whether they are vegetables or flowers or shrubs – you still keep adding these materials. Even when you have weeds, just pull them and lay them on the soil – to decay and add nutrients to the soil. The same with plants that are done for the season, just lay them on the surface of the soil after you cut them down, leaving the roots in place to decay and also add nutrients. If you use this method, sometimes called “sheet composting, you won’t need a compost pile, and you will need little, if any, commercial fertilizer. Your soil will become rich and loose, and easy to plant. The places where I have done this for the last ten years have wonderful soil to a depth of a foot or more – and all with no tilling or digging – the earthworms will do all the work for you. The only digging I do now is to dig a big hole for a large plant or to transplant an established plant to a better location.
Would you like to know of a perennial that will grow practically anywhere, requires no care and little water, multiplies yearly, has no disease or pest problems, and will yield beautiful blooms and lush foliage that stays attractive all season long? I am talking about daylilies. There is nothing bad to say about them. Yes, we have all seen the ordinary “Stella d’Oro” daylily in practically every landscaping job, but there are so many other daylilies in gorgeous colors – pink, red, claret, lemon yellow, peach, two tone – many have double form, and some are even fragrant. Many are repeat bloomers, and most bloom for a long time in mid summer. I have quite a few and most of them are blooming at this time. I go out every morning and check out the new arrivals. The daylily is called that because each bloom lasts for one day. They can be planted at anytime one can stick a spade in the soil. My friend Teresa who works at a large garden center in southeast Middletown told me they recently got a shipment of 900 fresh daylilies – many different and unusual cultivars that are hard to find. Go check them out for some fresh new color!
Wednesday, July 13, 2005
Silk ribbon embroidery pillow
Here is a silk ribbon embroidered pillow I made for my aunt in
Switzerland a few years ago. It has some of the flowers of Switzerland
on it.
Friday, July 08, 2005
Monday, July 04, 2005
More herb talk
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) is an easily grown bushy herb that grows to about two feet in height and about a foot wide. Its foliage is redolent of the scent of lemon. It has tiny white flowers in midsummer, and it also self-seeds - so once you plant one, you will always have replacements for this annual herb.
The British herbalist Culpeper wrote about this herb in the seventeenth century - "...[Lemon Balm] causeth the mind and heart to be Merry...and driveth away all troublesome cares." Like most herbs, it is antibacterial and antiviral, and is also slightly sedative – calming in other words. It also is good for digestion. If you are nervous or worried on occasion (and who isn’t sometimes?) make a tea with a few torn leaves of Lemon balm – drink with honey, and relax. It will also help your vegetable garden by attracting bees for good pollination – thereby increasing your yields.
I grow basil in the garden yearly. If you grow tomatoes, you need to grow basil as well, as the marriage between basil and tomatoes is well known. We associate basil with Italy and Italian cooking, but it is originally from India where it is known as tulsi, which in Hindi means Sacred Basil. Basil is also used in Thai cooking. Basil is good added to nearly every tomato dish, including sliced tomato sandwiches. Just lay a few leaves of basil on the tomato for a lovely flavor. To use in cooking, stack a few washed leaves on top of each other, roll up and slice thinly to create shreds. Add near the end of the cooking process. I love fresh tomato salad – sliced sweet onions, feta cheese, fresh wedges of tomatoes, torn basil, and balsamic vinegar and olive oil all combined. Basil comes in many varieties and is easily grown. Sun and good soil is all you need, and if you are short on space – grow it in a container. It will grow to two feet or more in height. Bush Basil is a small version easily grown in a pot. Keep pinching off the flowering tops to keep any variety of basil producing all summer. If you dry basil leaves, much of the flavor is lost. Basil is best preserved by pureeing the leaves with water or olive oil; freezing in portions (such as in ice cube trays) and keeping in zip lock freezer bags. That way you can enjoy your homegrown basil all winter.
My German mother mentioned that she remembers that in her childhood, they frequently used an herb called Bohnenkraut (meaning “bean herb” in German) to season beans. It was even sold alongside the fresh beans. After she searched a bit on Google, she found it is the herb known here as summer savory (Satureja hortensis). One of savory’s benefits, along with enhancing flavor is aiding in digestion. It is also supposed to be an aphrodisiac, the Latin name Satureja coming from Pliny the Elder in the first century. Pliny was a Roman scholar who wrote a 37 volume Natural History. (He died from volcanic fumes while trying to investigate the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius) He named this herb after satyrs, who were known for their sexual appetites. Satyrs supposedly lived in meadows of savory – hence implying that savory made them passionate. Another use for savory?
Veronicastrum siberica is a lovely elegant perennial now blooming in my garden next to my “David” phlox and several roses. It is five feet tall with whorls of long leaves placed symmetrically on the stem. It originates in Russia and is very hardy and healthy. There is also a native version with white blooms known as Veronicastrum virginicum. This plant looks great in the middle or back of a garden bed.
The British herbalist Culpeper wrote about this herb in the seventeenth century - "...[Lemon Balm] causeth the mind and heart to be Merry...and driveth away all troublesome cares." Like most herbs, it is antibacterial and antiviral, and is also slightly sedative – calming in other words. It also is good for digestion. If you are nervous or worried on occasion (and who isn’t sometimes?) make a tea with a few torn leaves of Lemon balm – drink with honey, and relax. It will also help your vegetable garden by attracting bees for good pollination – thereby increasing your yields.
I grow basil in the garden yearly. If you grow tomatoes, you need to grow basil as well, as the marriage between basil and tomatoes is well known. We associate basil with Italy and Italian cooking, but it is originally from India where it is known as tulsi, which in Hindi means Sacred Basil. Basil is also used in Thai cooking. Basil is good added to nearly every tomato dish, including sliced tomato sandwiches. Just lay a few leaves of basil on the tomato for a lovely flavor. To use in cooking, stack a few washed leaves on top of each other, roll up and slice thinly to create shreds. Add near the end of the cooking process. I love fresh tomato salad – sliced sweet onions, feta cheese, fresh wedges of tomatoes, torn basil, and balsamic vinegar and olive oil all combined. Basil comes in many varieties and is easily grown. Sun and good soil is all you need, and if you are short on space – grow it in a container. It will grow to two feet or more in height. Bush Basil is a small version easily grown in a pot. Keep pinching off the flowering tops to keep any variety of basil producing all summer. If you dry basil leaves, much of the flavor is lost. Basil is best preserved by pureeing the leaves with water or olive oil; freezing in portions (such as in ice cube trays) and keeping in zip lock freezer bags. That way you can enjoy your homegrown basil all winter.
My German mother mentioned that she remembers that in her childhood, they frequently used an herb called Bohnenkraut (meaning “bean herb” in German) to season beans. It was even sold alongside the fresh beans. After she searched a bit on Google, she found it is the herb known here as summer savory (Satureja hortensis). One of savory’s benefits, along with enhancing flavor is aiding in digestion. It is also supposed to be an aphrodisiac, the Latin name Satureja coming from Pliny the Elder in the first century. Pliny was a Roman scholar who wrote a 37 volume Natural History. (He died from volcanic fumes while trying to investigate the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius) He named this herb after satyrs, who were known for their sexual appetites. Satyrs supposedly lived in meadows of savory – hence implying that savory made them passionate. Another use for savory?
Veronicastrum siberica is a lovely elegant perennial now blooming in my garden next to my “David” phlox and several roses. It is five feet tall with whorls of long leaves placed symmetrically on the stem. It originates in Russia and is very hardy and healthy. There is also a native version with white blooms known as Veronicastrum virginicum. This plant looks great in the middle or back of a garden bed.
Tuesday, June 28, 2005
Borage bloom
Borage is a beautiful and beneficial herb to grow in your garden. Here
is a single bloom very close up.
Wednesday, June 22, 2005
Nasturtium "Alaska"
Here is a pretty and edible plant - the nasturtium. The leaves and
flowers have a peppery taste.
Garden column this week
Why grow herbs? There are many reasons to grow them. If you like to cook, there are herbs that will add oomph to many of your dishes. Some herbs I grow for the scent alone. Most herbs are simply very attractive. If you don’t have an herb garden, it is not too late to start one. A few square feet in a sunny area, or a few pots on a patio or balcony with plenty of sun is all that is needed. I am emphasizing sun because that is what herbs usually want most – the more the better.
Good drainage is essential; so don’t pick a spot that has standing water after every rain.
It is usually not necessary to fertilize herbs; doing so may even diminish their flavor.
The next thing to do is pick out the herbs you want to grow. Today and in the next couple of weeks I will discuss some good herbs to grow.
Parsley is a commonly grown herb, and can be used in so many dishes when cooking; I would consider it almost indispensable. I grew mine from seed this year after two tries, so they are still small, but they can certainly be purchased as plants. I find the large flat leaf parsley is better tasting than the curly variety. To use it, just pick some sprigs to garnish a plate or chop to sprinkle over all kinds of things – some simple boiled potatoes, a hot bowl of soup, rice pilaf, whatever! Parsley adds flavor and lots of nutrition. I like to pick sprigs to chew when out in my garden – it freshens your breath as well. Parsley is also said to improve the health of roses when grown nearby.
I have annual nasturtiums growing in pots here and there in my yard. Nasturtiums are beautiful cheery plants that like sun, soil that is not too fertile. There are both bush and trailing types; the trailing types can grow up to three feet long. The round lily pad like leaves are either a gorgeous bluish green or can also be variegated green and creamy white. The leaves and flowers can both be picked to add to salads or sandwiches, or just used as pretty garnishes for various dishes. Nasturtium leaves have ten times the Vitamin C of lettuce. The taste? Kind of fresh and peppery – very appealing. I like to eat a few leaves when out viewing my garden. The flowers can be stuffed with seasoned cream cheese or guacamole for an easily done fancy appetizer – serve that with your next Margarita! Even their seeds are edible, and can be ground and used like pepper.
Nasturtiums are easily grown from seed or can be bought started as young plants at plant nurseries. Plant them in the vegetable garden for their colorful blooms and their fresh looking foliage.
A must have for me is rosemary. The plant is actually a perennial in warmer areas, but either needs to be treated as an annual here or wintered over in a very sunny and cool window indoors. The plant is very attractive so can be a feature in an attractive pot. The leaves look like pine needles. One can cut sprigs and use them whole or chop them to add to any pork, chicken, lamb, beef, or rabbit. When I spent time in Italy as a child with relatives– Sunday dinner meant roasted rabbit with garlic, olive oil, and rosemary. I like to make a marinade of chopped rosemary and garlic, olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to use to marinate chops, chicken pieces, and roasts. Lemon juice is good added to the mix to flavor chicken pieces or whole chickens for lemon herb chicken.
The perennial herb thyme is also a very good cooking herb as well as being very attractive. Give it lots of sun and good drainage. There are many kinds of thyme – I like to grow the variegated, common, lemon or French thyme for cooking purposes. I also have some Elfin thyme just for looks that, as the name implies, is very tiny, growing in a pot with some other tiny plants. Elfin thyme or Wooly thyme would be excellent to grow between paving stones, as they grow thickly and remain very short. For luscious scents try lemon thyme, lime thyme, lavender thyme, or orange balsam thyme. They smell so good you will want them for the scent alone. I just bought three orange balsam thymes – one for me and two for friends. Thyme is good for flavoring fish, summer squash, scrambled eggs and more. Both rosemary and thyme can be easily dried and used all winter.
More herb talk next week…
Good drainage is essential; so don’t pick a spot that has standing water after every rain.
It is usually not necessary to fertilize herbs; doing so may even diminish their flavor.
The next thing to do is pick out the herbs you want to grow. Today and in the next couple of weeks I will discuss some good herbs to grow.
Parsley is a commonly grown herb, and can be used in so many dishes when cooking; I would consider it almost indispensable. I grew mine from seed this year after two tries, so they are still small, but they can certainly be purchased as plants. I find the large flat leaf parsley is better tasting than the curly variety. To use it, just pick some sprigs to garnish a plate or chop to sprinkle over all kinds of things – some simple boiled potatoes, a hot bowl of soup, rice pilaf, whatever! Parsley adds flavor and lots of nutrition. I like to pick sprigs to chew when out in my garden – it freshens your breath as well. Parsley is also said to improve the health of roses when grown nearby.
I have annual nasturtiums growing in pots here and there in my yard. Nasturtiums are beautiful cheery plants that like sun, soil that is not too fertile. There are both bush and trailing types; the trailing types can grow up to three feet long. The round lily pad like leaves are either a gorgeous bluish green or can also be variegated green and creamy white. The leaves and flowers can both be picked to add to salads or sandwiches, or just used as pretty garnishes for various dishes. Nasturtium leaves have ten times the Vitamin C of lettuce. The taste? Kind of fresh and peppery – very appealing. I like to eat a few leaves when out viewing my garden. The flowers can be stuffed with seasoned cream cheese or guacamole for an easily done fancy appetizer – serve that with your next Margarita! Even their seeds are edible, and can be ground and used like pepper.
Nasturtiums are easily grown from seed or can be bought started as young plants at plant nurseries. Plant them in the vegetable garden for their colorful blooms and their fresh looking foliage.
A must have for me is rosemary. The plant is actually a perennial in warmer areas, but either needs to be treated as an annual here or wintered over in a very sunny and cool window indoors. The plant is very attractive so can be a feature in an attractive pot. The leaves look like pine needles. One can cut sprigs and use them whole or chop them to add to any pork, chicken, lamb, beef, or rabbit. When I spent time in Italy as a child with relatives– Sunday dinner meant roasted rabbit with garlic, olive oil, and rosemary. I like to make a marinade of chopped rosemary and garlic, olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to use to marinate chops, chicken pieces, and roasts. Lemon juice is good added to the mix to flavor chicken pieces or whole chickens for lemon herb chicken.
The perennial herb thyme is also a very good cooking herb as well as being very attractive. Give it lots of sun and good drainage. There are many kinds of thyme – I like to grow the variegated, common, lemon or French thyme for cooking purposes. I also have some Elfin thyme just for looks that, as the name implies, is very tiny, growing in a pot with some other tiny plants. Elfin thyme or Wooly thyme would be excellent to grow between paving stones, as they grow thickly and remain very short. For luscious scents try lemon thyme, lime thyme, lavender thyme, or orange balsam thyme. They smell so good you will want them for the scent alone. I just bought three orange balsam thymes – one for me and two for friends. Thyme is good for flavoring fish, summer squash, scrambled eggs and more. Both rosemary and thyme can be easily dried and used all winter.
More herb talk next week…
Gardenia blooms
My gardenia has been blooming off and on for a while now. It wintered
over very well in a sunny window in my home, and is now enjoying the
outdoors all summer.
Old Garden Roses
Here is a bouquet I had for my Memorial day cookout featuring (from
left to right) Cardinal Richelieu, unknown!, Zepherine Drouhine, and
Constance Spry, with Lady's Mantle blooms for a pretty fresh green
accent.
Pulmonaria (lungwort)
The beautiful blue blooms of the Pulmonaria in April, grown with a
carpet of Lysimachia nummularia (Creeping Jenny).
Wednesday, June 15, 2005
A visit to a plant farm with my friend
A couple of weeks ago, Teresa, a dear gardening friend, called. “Let’s take a field trip to Greenfield Plant Farm,” she said. The next day we went. Greenfield Plant Farm grows all sorts of annuals and perennials, and sells them direct to the public and also to other retailers. Many of the plants sold at local garden centers are grown there.
I had never been there, as it is a little out of the way. Greenfield is located at 726 Stephens Road in Maineville, Ohio. They grow over 2000 different perennials, and also herbs, annuals, shrubs, and ornamental grasses. When we got there I was impressed by their display gardens, which are attractively and imaginatively designed. I was dazzled by the variety and quality of their plants. Teresa, an employee of a local garden center where I used to work, was dazzled as well. We both wanted “one of everything.” OK, so since we don’t live out in the country or have bottomless bank accounts, we had to narrow it down a bit.
The visit there has created a whole new interest for me that I look to develop further this summer, after my summer classes are over. There was a whole section there devoted solely to alpine plants and miniature versions of other perennials to grow in troughs. Here is just a partial list of the miniature versions of standard plants – Baby’s breath, Columbine, Dianthus, Eryngium, Delphinium, Artimesia, Coral Bells (Heuchera), Yarrow, Campanula, Delosperma (Ice Plant), and many others. The troughs, in various sizes, were sold there as well. Now I want a trough and some miniature plants to go in it. As troughs are rather pricey, I looked up how to make my own on a couple of sites on the internet. I will be attempting to make Teresa and me both our own troughs. (yes, she loved the minis too – who could resist?) There were also miniature versions of evergreen shrubs – one I looked at reached twelve inches in 10 YEARS! I will report to my readers on my trough project in a few weeks. I have one container that is a “trough” of sorts, and it is planted with some small plants. I will have to make another, as it is charming,
I f you are a sedum fan, they definitely have a sedum (or three or ten) for you. I counted more than 25 varieties of sedums, which are so perfect for hot dry locations. Houseleeks, hens and chicks, or sempervivums were also in this area – I saw six varieties. I need a Cobweb houseleek now (yes I do!) to go with my “ordinary” houseleek.
Red wagons and other wagon types were handy to carry selections made. Rows and rows of vigorous perennials tempted us at every turn. Some of the polyhouses had a great selection of unusual annuals. Then there was a row of roses, and I added a climbing Eden to my wagon. Eden is a Romantica Rose, bred by the Meidilland family of France with huge blossoms packed with cream/pale pink blossoms. Add disease resistance, heat tolerance, and ever-blooming – and then you know why I had to take it home. It will grow to eight feet wide and five feet wide. Ah, well, I don’t need to plant tomatoes in my garden next year, do I? That’s what my big containers are for! Two hours later we wheeled our carts to the checkout booth and assessed the damage to our financial situation. We decided we could still lunch at LaRosa’s on the way home.
If you love plants and are looking for the unusual and unique – this was definitely worth the trip. We are already planning to go again. After all, we need to use our $5 coupon we got last time. For more info and directions, hours of operation, etc. see www.greenfieldplantfarm.com.
Tomato hint – be sure to plant marigolds around your tomato plants. It looks pretty and deters harmful predators and pests in the soil. Other good companion plants for tomatoes are borage, dill, and horehound. I have marigolds and borage around some of mine. The borage is a lovely herb with pretty true blue flowers that self seeds and comes back every year. More about borage next week. The easy to grow and tasty herb basil is also good to plant near your tomatoes. I love basil, tomato, and sweet onion salads with balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing – oops, getting ahead of myself here – the tomatoes have not even blossomed yet! I can wait.
I had never been there, as it is a little out of the way. Greenfield is located at 726 Stephens Road in Maineville, Ohio. They grow over 2000 different perennials, and also herbs, annuals, shrubs, and ornamental grasses. When we got there I was impressed by their display gardens, which are attractively and imaginatively designed. I was dazzled by the variety and quality of their plants. Teresa, an employee of a local garden center where I used to work, was dazzled as well. We both wanted “one of everything.” OK, so since we don’t live out in the country or have bottomless bank accounts, we had to narrow it down a bit.
The visit there has created a whole new interest for me that I look to develop further this summer, after my summer classes are over. There was a whole section there devoted solely to alpine plants and miniature versions of other perennials to grow in troughs. Here is just a partial list of the miniature versions of standard plants – Baby’s breath, Columbine, Dianthus, Eryngium, Delphinium, Artimesia, Coral Bells (Heuchera), Yarrow, Campanula, Delosperma (Ice Plant), and many others. The troughs, in various sizes, were sold there as well. Now I want a trough and some miniature plants to go in it. As troughs are rather pricey, I looked up how to make my own on a couple of sites on the internet. I will be attempting to make Teresa and me both our own troughs. (yes, she loved the minis too – who could resist?) There were also miniature versions of evergreen shrubs – one I looked at reached twelve inches in 10 YEARS! I will report to my readers on my trough project in a few weeks. I have one container that is a “trough” of sorts, and it is planted with some small plants. I will have to make another, as it is charming,
I f you are a sedum fan, they definitely have a sedum (or three or ten) for you. I counted more than 25 varieties of sedums, which are so perfect for hot dry locations. Houseleeks, hens and chicks, or sempervivums were also in this area – I saw six varieties. I need a Cobweb houseleek now (yes I do!) to go with my “ordinary” houseleek.
Red wagons and other wagon types were handy to carry selections made. Rows and rows of vigorous perennials tempted us at every turn. Some of the polyhouses had a great selection of unusual annuals. Then there was a row of roses, and I added a climbing Eden to my wagon. Eden is a Romantica Rose, bred by the Meidilland family of France with huge blossoms packed with cream/pale pink blossoms. Add disease resistance, heat tolerance, and ever-blooming – and then you know why I had to take it home. It will grow to eight feet wide and five feet wide. Ah, well, I don’t need to plant tomatoes in my garden next year, do I? That’s what my big containers are for! Two hours later we wheeled our carts to the checkout booth and assessed the damage to our financial situation. We decided we could still lunch at LaRosa’s on the way home.
If you love plants and are looking for the unusual and unique – this was definitely worth the trip. We are already planning to go again. After all, we need to use our $5 coupon we got last time. For more info and directions, hours of operation, etc. see www.greenfieldplantfarm.com.
Tomato hint – be sure to plant marigolds around your tomato plants. It looks pretty and deters harmful predators and pests in the soil. Other good companion plants for tomatoes are borage, dill, and horehound. I have marigolds and borage around some of mine. The borage is a lovely herb with pretty true blue flowers that self seeds and comes back every year. More about borage next week. The easy to grow and tasty herb basil is also good to plant near your tomatoes. I love basil, tomato, and sweet onion salads with balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing – oops, getting ahead of myself here – the tomatoes have not even blossomed yet! I can wait.
Tuesday, June 07, 2005
Garden Column this week
Hi....I write a weekly garden column, so this will also be a part of my blog - at least once a week.
Here is this week's column:
School is out and children are home. Time to involve them in your gardening, if you can drag them away from the television, the computer, and video games. I know all about it, I have a tech savvy daughter who learns more every day from my husband who is a computer professional. She is now working on building a web site to share her interests – Japanese Anime (Inuyasha), Jim Carrey, and comedy in general.
Back to gardening – I do try to get her involved – and she did help me plant the flowers at my church a couple of weeks ago and did a good job. Next I am going to suggest she raise some miniature tomato plants and sell them instead of lemonade.
If you involve children in your garden, or if they just like to explore and play in it like my two grandsons James and Jonah, you want to avoid harmful chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides, and in this column I will talk about some alternative products I use.
Have you noticed an increased population of sowbugs/pillbugs/roly polies? They are overrunning my pots and garden. They have their place – they help process organic matter, eat dead plant material, etc. But they will also feast on young tender plant material if it is available. To contain their population to reasonable numbers, use Diatomaceous Earth, a product readily available in garden sections of stores. This is a wonderful product that is totally harmless to people or pets but will kill cockroaches, ants, bedbugs, fleas, boxelder bugs, carpet beetles, centipedes, crickets, earwigs, grasshoppers, ticks, millipedes, scorpions, slugs, and silverfish. Diatomaceous Earth is made of the fossilized remains of very tiny creatures called diatoms. It looks like a fine white powder, and the very tiny particles have microscopically sharp edges, which cut the exoskeletons of pests so they dehydrate and die in short order – all with no dangerous chemical residues. The way to use it is to dust it onto the areas where pests are seen – around plants on the soil, in potted plants, in your pets bedding and fur, along baseboards and windowsills, etc. In the garden it needs to be reapplied after rain. I am sprinkling it around all my hostas along with crushed eggshells to control slugs. I love my hostas and don’t want them decorated with lots of holes. Try Diatomaceous Earth for garden and home pest control; it is reasonably priced and readily available. Keep it in a “shaker” container with a label for convenience. To read more specifics about it, here is an informative web page - http://www.hydromall.com/happy_grower16.html
On one of my Internet gardening lists, someone said they use grits to kill ants. One simply sprinkles dry grits on anthills, the ants eat it, and then they “pop” and die. I think I will buy a box of grits and be ready in case I uncover another ant colony near my house.
Those pesky mosquitoes that come back every summer often mar evenings spent in the yard. Drain standing water, keep fish in your pond to eat larva, and use insect repellant. If, like me, you choose to avoid using harmful chemicals if at all possible, try Avon Skin So Soft as a bug repellant. I used this when we vacationed in Sanibel Island – the sand “fleas” were terrible, but if we rubbed Skin So Soft on our legs they left us alone. Skin So Soft can also be added to the rinse water when bathing your dog to repel fleas. Avon has also added some new products that have Skin So Soft in it to be sold as bug repellant, such as combos of it and sunscreen, and when I just checked out Avon’s website – I see that all the Skin So Soft specialty products are on sale. Just the regular Skin So Soft works well, though. You can purchase from the website - www.avon.com - or your Avon representative. I have no affiliation with Avon, other than I sold it for a few months about twenty-five years ago. I do have an interest in keeping myself, my family, and my garden free of harmful chemicals and I try to encourage as many people as possible to do the same. For more alternatives to harmful chemicals for various uses in the garden (and many other great products) visit www.gardensalive.com, which is located in Lawrenceburg, Indiana.
Here is this week's column:
School is out and children are home. Time to involve them in your gardening, if you can drag them away from the television, the computer, and video games. I know all about it, I have a tech savvy daughter who learns more every day from my husband who is a computer professional. She is now working on building a web site to share her interests – Japanese Anime (Inuyasha), Jim Carrey, and comedy in general.
Back to gardening – I do try to get her involved – and she did help me plant the flowers at my church a couple of weeks ago and did a good job. Next I am going to suggest she raise some miniature tomato plants and sell them instead of lemonade.
If you involve children in your garden, or if they just like to explore and play in it like my two grandsons James and Jonah, you want to avoid harmful chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides, and in this column I will talk about some alternative products I use.
Have you noticed an increased population of sowbugs/pillbugs/roly polies? They are overrunning my pots and garden. They have their place – they help process organic matter, eat dead plant material, etc. But they will also feast on young tender plant material if it is available. To contain their population to reasonable numbers, use Diatomaceous Earth, a product readily available in garden sections of stores. This is a wonderful product that is totally harmless to people or pets but will kill cockroaches, ants, bedbugs, fleas, boxelder bugs, carpet beetles, centipedes, crickets, earwigs, grasshoppers, ticks, millipedes, scorpions, slugs, and silverfish. Diatomaceous Earth is made of the fossilized remains of very tiny creatures called diatoms. It looks like a fine white powder, and the very tiny particles have microscopically sharp edges, which cut the exoskeletons of pests so they dehydrate and die in short order – all with no dangerous chemical residues. The way to use it is to dust it onto the areas where pests are seen – around plants on the soil, in potted plants, in your pets bedding and fur, along baseboards and windowsills, etc. In the garden it needs to be reapplied after rain. I am sprinkling it around all my hostas along with crushed eggshells to control slugs. I love my hostas and don’t want them decorated with lots of holes. Try Diatomaceous Earth for garden and home pest control; it is reasonably priced and readily available. Keep it in a “shaker” container with a label for convenience. To read more specifics about it, here is an informative web page - http://www.hydromall.com/happy_grower16.html
On one of my Internet gardening lists, someone said they use grits to kill ants. One simply sprinkles dry grits on anthills, the ants eat it, and then they “pop” and die. I think I will buy a box of grits and be ready in case I uncover another ant colony near my house.
Those pesky mosquitoes that come back every summer often mar evenings spent in the yard. Drain standing water, keep fish in your pond to eat larva, and use insect repellant. If, like me, you choose to avoid using harmful chemicals if at all possible, try Avon Skin So Soft as a bug repellant. I used this when we vacationed in Sanibel Island – the sand “fleas” were terrible, but if we rubbed Skin So Soft on our legs they left us alone. Skin So Soft can also be added to the rinse water when bathing your dog to repel fleas. Avon has also added some new products that have Skin So Soft in it to be sold as bug repellant, such as combos of it and sunscreen, and when I just checked out Avon’s website – I see that all the Skin So Soft specialty products are on sale. Just the regular Skin So Soft works well, though. You can purchase from the website - www.avon.com - or your Avon representative. I have no affiliation with Avon, other than I sold it for a few months about twenty-five years ago. I do have an interest in keeping myself, my family, and my garden free of harmful chemicals and I try to encourage as many people as possible to do the same. For more alternatives to harmful chemicals for various uses in the garden (and many other great products) visit www.gardensalive.com, which is located in Lawrenceburg, Indiana.
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